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S-Chassis (And other Nissans...sort of) Discussion Thread #3

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  • #46
    I was rather vague, apologies. Its a fairly cold night and the car had a few hours to cool down but the needle was still showing some kind of heat. Car on, idle for 30 seconds, check the cap and radiator and both were warm. The radiator was very warm, but not enough where I couldn't put my hand against it. It didn't overheat, but it went slightly higher than normal and got there 10x quicker. No idea what the hell is in it, but its coolant. I haven't flushed it/serviced the car since I bought it in January, 200kms overdue currently (or 5000 if you're anal).

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    • #47
      Well if the radiator is getting hot then I'd more think think the thermostat is stuck open. If it was stuck shut you'd get next to no flow though the radiator and it wouldn't warm up.

      EDIT: Nice pics Villain! Can I have your rims? kthxbai!

      Needs more GTR grille. Or something, not a fan of the stock grille. Just too... flat.
      $900 Silvia? See it come together here~ Click!
      $0 SR20? [Featuring $400 Silvia] See it come together here~ Click!

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      • #48
        It could be a blocked up radiator. Go for that service and thermostat first, but I ended up changing the thermo, coolant, water pump and lastly the radiator to solve my overheating problem a few months ago. The OEM radiator was garbage though. You should try to flush the radiator too if you change out the coolant to get rid of any clogs. Note also that just because hose water seems to flow through the radiator fine, it may not flow the same under pressure. My old rad seemed to get the hose water through fine but replacing it still fixed everything. Hopefully it's just the thermostat.

        And KB, it depends on which direction the coolant flows through the radiator. It's either gonna prevent coolant from getting to the radiator, or prevent it from getting out of the radiator. If it's stuck open it just makes the engine take a looooong time to warm up.
        Last edited by -David; 22-09-2012, 01:37 AM.
        Currently: Black 1997 Nissan Maxima w/5spd - Hellastock minus the Mishimoto radiator
        Next: 91-93 Nissan 240sx Fastback KA-T w/5spd
        Nissan Pride

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        • #49
          Originally posted by villain View Post
          Yeah, i was actually thinking about replacing the fuel pump before anyway.
          Wouldn't be a bad idea.
          I'm going to get around to starting fresh with this car, too.
          It's had a few minor changes and top ups here and there when needed but i think it's about time i do a major service.
          s13 fuel pumps are prone to premature death there sht house anyways, $120 and a walbro 255lph intank will do the trick however i suggest doing a fuel reg at the same time if you can, then you got one of the most important things out of the way...

          Originally posted by -David View Post
          I wish I knew of a way to test the fuel pump.
          easy pull the line out in between the fuel filter and the reg put your reds on, if it pisses fuel the pump works?

          Originally posted by FST.02J View Post
          Rose Thermostat must be stuck closed
          Originally posted by Rosey View Post
          Cheers Stu. Its well overdue for a service anyway so that'll be done when I get time, if its still heating up like a mofo afterwards i'll replace the thermostat.
          if the rad is getting dumped with hot coolant its safe to say the thermostat is defiantly opening, most easy way to test is to let the car cool off over night, start it up from cold hop under the bonnet and hold the return rad hose until it gets hot, if it does not and the car is hot and has an irregular idle your thermostat is prob stuck, wile on this topic cars that seem to have a phantom overheating issue usually are solved with a new radiator cap you be surprised at the amount of people who over look it

          on a sad note, grizzlyimports messaged me to say i ordered tho's steel rims to late and the last set had already sold SAD PANDA!!! but on the flip side i gota give grizzlyimports a shout out for there honesty, anywere else would have kept the money and back ordered the item for 6 weeks, they were fast to jump in and message me on my late order and offer me a refund, thumbs up!
          sigpic

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          • #50
            Originally posted by -David View Post
            And villain, those look good. I like the first one a lot. You should definitely get into photography. You guys with s-chassis just have to go for a drive and you've got one of the best looking cars to take pictures of, wherever you want to park it.
            Thanks, having a good looking car definitely makes picture taking a lot easier.

            Originally posted by KillerBunnys122 View Post
            EDIT: Nice pics Villain! Can I have your rims? kthxbai!

            Needs more GTR grille. Or something, not a fan of the stock grille. Just too... flat.
            I quite like the stock grille. The stockness of it is a nice contrast with the wheels and height. It's both racecar and granny spec at the same time. I'm quite a fan of it.
            For the longest time, the car didn't have a grille at all. At first i liked the look (which i imagine would be similar to a GTR grille) but after a while, just got sick of it. Found the stock grille, put it on and fell in love again.

            Originally posted by evil80e View Post
            s13 fuel pumps are prone to premature death there sht house anyways, $120 and a walbro 255lph intank will do the trick however i suggest doing a fuel reg at the same time if you can, then you got one of the most important things out of the way...
            Yeah, that's the fuel pump i had my eye on.
            It would be a pretty good idea to change the fuel system over. Hopefully it'd get my car running a bit better.
            Even if that wasn't the cause of my starting and idle problem, i'd still like to do it.
            Originally posted by ADowbs
            He lives in Australia, it's a felony for thinking about doing a motor swap, let alone actually doing one.
            sigpic
            My S13 build_________________Brothers 180________________S-Chassis Thread #3_________________How to Turbo a Car

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            • #51
              Originally posted by evil80e View Post
              easy pull the line out in between the fuel filter and the reg put your reds on, if it pisses fuel the pump works?
              Yeah that's true, but does that show you if the pump is weak with old age, or just that it's working? I don't really know if you could tell.


              Originally posted by evil80e View Post
              if the rad is getting dumped with hot coolant its safe to say the thermostat is defiantly opening, most easy way to test is to let the car cool off over night, start it up from cold hop under the bonnet and hold the return rad hose until it gets hot, if it does not and the car is hot and has an irregular idle your thermostat is prob stuck, wile on this topic cars that seem to have a phantom overheating issue usually are solved with a new radiator cap you be surprised at the amount of people who over look it
              I just remembered that on the last page Rosey said that the Liberty isn't overheating when driven. Wouldn't it overheat almost immediately under load, even in colder months if the radiator was at fault? The cap would be a cheap thing to replace just to be sure that's not the cause.

              Originally posted by evil80e View Post
              on a sad note, grizzlyimports messaged me to say i ordered tho's steel rims to late and the last set had already sold SAD PANDA!!! but on the flip side i gota give grizzlyimports a shout out for there honesty, anywere else would have kept the money and back ordered the item for 6 weeks, they were fast to jump in and message me on my late order and offer me a refund, thumbs up!
              It's a mixed feeling. Like a let down but appreciative at the same time. Those are great businesses to work with, for sure.


              Also, Rosey, there's a chance you might have air bubbles in the cooling system. You could try letting your car warm up with the rad cap off and see if that fixes it. It would also help to park on an incline or lift the front end to elevate the rad fill hole. Feel both hoses after a drive to see if they're hot. If one is hot and the other is cold, chances are it's blocked up either by deposits in the fins or air trapped inside. It could even be a partial clog that's just not flowing as much as it should.
              Last edited by -David; 22-09-2012, 10:48 AM.
              Currently: Black 1997 Nissan Maxima w/5spd - Hellastock minus the Mishimoto radiator
              Next: 91-93 Nissan 240sx Fastback KA-T w/5spd
              Nissan Pride

              Comment


              • #52
                As suggested I left it for the night and had another go. Let it warm up to normal temps on idle, took as long as it should so that was fine. Top hose hot, bottom hose completely cold, radiator not even warm. Another thing I noticed was the idle sitting around 500 which is kind of scary, because it felt and sounded like it wanted to stall so many times. I'll take it for a drive later when I go see the missus, but i'm really hoping it doesn't overheat on me this time. Might need some coolant and water in the back just in case.

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                • #53
                  You should definitely keep some on hand in case. The low idling *could* be caused by the ECU because it detects higher idle engine temps. Do your rad fans come on? I hate to tell you that it's any one thing for sure, but your situation sounds a whole lot like mine when the radiator died. Same upper and lower hose temperatures and the radiator was about in between. Theres a free test you can do on the thermostat before you do anything else though. Find an old pot and boil some water in it. Carefully set the thermostat in the water and watch to see if the valve opens. 100 degrees is more than enough to open any thermostats I've ever had. You'll have to do it kind of quickly though because once the water is taken away from the heat, it cools pretty quickly to under the point that would open the valve. Also, if you notice that it heats up at low rpm and reads somewhat cooler at speed, it points more toward the water pump. Overheating can be a real pain to figure out. In the end, I really hope it's just a cheap thermo that's gone bad.
                  Currently: Black 1997 Nissan Maxima w/5spd - Hellastock minus the Mishimoto radiator
                  Next: 91-93 Nissan 240sx Fastback KA-T w/5spd
                  Nissan Pride

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Hey guys, I found out something while grabbing a rear upper control arm from a S13 at Pick-a-part...

                    It had a rear sway bar! Mine has the holes in the lower control arms for one (unsure of other mounts) didn't the CA come with one? :S

                    Gotta go back there and get it!
                    $900 Silvia? See it come together here~ Click!
                    $0 SR20? [Featuring $400 Silvia] See it come together here~ Click!

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                    • #55
                      **** Subaru's.

                      If its cheap thats mad KB, upgraded swaybars make a huge difference to handling. Definitely a good upgrade for any car.

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Rosey View Post
                        **** Subaru's.

                        If its cheap thats mad KB, upgraded swaybars make a huge difference to handling. Definitely a good upgrade for any car.
                        Then going from no sway bar to one should definitely be great! haha

                        Can't imagine it costing much since its from the wreckers. The rear upper control arm was $30 and I only got it because it had a decent bush in it. New bushes are like $60 each I think. :P
                        $900 Silvia? See it come together here~ Click!
                        $0 SR20? [Featuring $400 Silvia] See it come together here~ Click!

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                        • #57
                          Well my Whiteline ones were fully adjustable, $175 each ($265 RRP). I've seen them going for as low as $130 dependent on seller but yeah, just a ballpark if you want to go the brand new route. For a standard one I'd think maybe $50 from a wrecker? Should definitely help out though.

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by -David View Post
                            Yeah that's true, but does that show you if the pump is weak with old age, or just that it's working? I don't really know if you could tell.
                            fuel pumps usually work or they don't, when they are old and refusing to give up you will start to run lean under hard load and a sure sign is your car having a nice miss in higher RPM, a lot of noobs who run out and buy turbo cars slap a bleed valve in and run 20psi experience it for that short period of time before they burn holes in the side of there pistons =P

                            Originally posted by -David View Post
                            I just remembered that on the last page Rosey said that the Liberty isn't overheating when driven. Wouldn't it overheat almost immediately under load, even in colder months if the radiator was at fault? The cap would be a cheap thing to replace just to be sure that's not the cause.
                            yea sounds like it could be thermostat, im not sure if the liberty runs an electric thermo fan this could also be a reason since it is overheating when stationary, really heating issues need to be looked at closely some cars can have similar symptoms
                            when they have a fouled up oil filter and well outside there service...

                            Originally posted by -David View Post
                            there's a chance you might have air bubbles in the cooling system. You could try letting your car warm up with the rad cap off and see if that fixes it.
                            lol i hope not, non stop bubbles usually means failed head gasket, due to incorrect coolant bleeding, every car is bleed different ( but in most cases from bleed valve point usually on the top water neck ) or at least at the point of the highest point of your cooling system, since its an s-chassis thread i should nab the bleed procedure of nswsilvia there is a good thread on how to do it proper, or if your sr20 water neck has a broken or snapped bleed valve that is super common in sr's...
                            sigpic

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                            • #59
                              Still no decent cars on the market.
                              Still no nice two-tone 13's. Still no nice R32's that fall below an $8k price tag (wtf?). Still no nice 180SX's which fall below a $7k price tag. Bleh.

                              Waiting better be worth it.

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by MrSheep View Post
                                Still no decent cars on the market.
                                Still no nice two-tone 13's. Still no nice R32's that fall below an $8k price tag (wtf?). Still no nice 180SX's which fall below a $7k price tag. Bleh.

                                Waiting better be worth it.
                                $5,500, turbo though.. Check out Drift Sales on facebook if you don't already, always S-Chassis' popping up with and without rego/rwc.

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