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  • Wheel fitting

    Hello there! I am a recent member of this forum post and was advised by many friends that if I have any questions it can be answered in forums, I will skip the introduction and just cut to the chase. I am making this topic in Regards to wheels and I was wondering about purchasing a new set of wheels, What do I need to know when it comes to buying a new set of wheels. How do I know it will fit etc. I am fairly new to forums and the car culture please forgive me if this topic has been discussed previously. Don't know if this will help but my car is a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES. Thank you!

  • #2
    Upgrade to 5 stud nut things so you can get all the super nice chromies.
    This is my signature, by far the most original and hilarious signature made in the long hilarious history of hilarious original signatures, all other signatures shall bow before mine for it is... the best.

    GTI-R > SW20 > everything else

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    • #3
      Make sure your wheels are the right stud pattern and also offset.

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      • #4
        https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing
        for starters

        http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/...si-09-rev4.pdf
        this has a pretty good summary and as an added bonus will tell you how to stay legal (< +1" wide rim over standard, total diameter (wheel and tyre) within 7% or 15mm of standard, <12.5mm offset change for most non-muscle cars)

        https://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
        for calculating differences like rolling diameter
        I live my life a quarter mole at a time. Nothing else matters: not the volume, not the temperature, not the lab and all it's bullshit. For those 1.5055 x 10^23 molecules or slightly more, I'm accurate.

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        • #5
          and then when you get your wheels you need to bust out some calipers and get adapters for your hub flanges from somewhere like:
          http://www.hubcentric-rings.com/

          and also the appropriate lug nuts/wheel nuts whatever you want to call them: different cars have different stud threads (or no studs at all, but then bolt threads), and different wheels have different seat geometries (round seat, cone seat, different cone angles, flat-with-washer-70s-cragar-chrome-madness). some even require a shank that goes inside the wheel (crimson in japan used to make sparco wheels that way) and these are very hard to find (unless you take a chance on the interwebs or have me to tell you to get them from RHD Japan, as RAYS still make them).
          https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lug_nut
          explains this with pictures

          so you need to pick wheels to suit your stud/bolt pattern and axle geometry, but within the constraints of the ADRs available from your motor registry (the NSW one I linked before will be appicable in other states too, it's a national standard, but might as well confirm to be sure), then find out what hub rings you need to adapt the wheels to your axles, and what nuts/bolts you need to interface your wheels to your studs/holes.

          easy as...
          now you see why people just go to tempe tyres and pick a design off the rack and ask if they'll fit...
          I live my life a quarter mole at a time. Nothing else matters: not the volume, not the temperature, not the lab and all it's bullshit. For those 1.5055 x 10^23 molecules or slightly more, I'm accurate.

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          • #6
            Stud pattern/pcd, diameter, width and offset. Do a bit of reading up on them. Once you have an understanding I use the website willtheyfit.com to check wheel offsets to current ones on my car.
            Formerly known as Bangchong. Fulltime metal fabricator, part time adult. You can find some of my work on ista @bangchong.

            Currently building a Mx83 Cressida

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