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[Victoria, AUS] What are the steps to legally modding a car?

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  • [Victoria, AUS] What are the steps to legally modding a car?

    So I watched the MCM video where they did some mods to a BRZ and I want to do something with my 2014 Fiesta ST. But I have no idea what the process even is. The MCM videos don't go into that much detail and they're in NSW anyway. Eg. they finished up their BRZ and then drove off to get the wheels aligned. Can you even drive a newly modded car on the road without approval?

    I know there's something called "VASS certification" that Vicroads wants for modified vehicles, but I'm not good with interpreting legal speak so I was hoping someone with modding experience in Victoria would be able to break down the process of legally modding a car here. And for reference, my vehicle is already registered and road-worthy. I only purchased it second-hand from the Subaru dealership in Melbourne late last year.

    Now I have read this post; https://forums.mightycarmods.com/for...ying-your-ride , but they don't actually explain things in much detail, particularly for Victoria, and only vaguely mention engineer approval and certification with "complex mods", which isn't very helpful in knowing what you're supposed to do.

    Also. What mods are even legal here? It seems like online part shops sell whatever and leave it up to the customer to determine what's legal and what isn't. I'm pretty sure I saw vent-to-atmo BOVs are illegal, yet they're sold online (carmodsaustralia.com.au) and I'm pretty sure MCM has used them. I would like to have one on my car, but I fear I'm shit out of luck. Or are they just legal over in NSW and not here? And if they aren't legal. What's the solution if I want to upgrade my stock one? All I know is that there's something to do with re-circulation, but I'm not sure.

    Let me break down the kind of mods I want to do (in rough chronological order) so you guys can maybe shed some light on how to go about them... Definitely tell me which needs approval or certification, and what can just be slapped on without needing to let Vicroads know or something. And of course, I know I need to tell my insurer (RACV) about any modifications I add to my car.

    Exhaust: https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/...Fiesta-ST-2014
    I want to obviously make my car purr more like a cheetah and less like a kitten. The stock sound is okay but quiet and a bit weak. I would like my car to pop and bang a bit more like the new Fiesta ST they have over in the UK, but I don't know what exactly does that. Whether it's a more open exhaust or what.

    Now I know that there is an EPA engine noise limit in Victoria of 90db (this is under load too, not just idle). I have already emailed Mishimoto asking if they have db figures for the exhaust on a stock vehicle and they said no... I also asked if the non-resonated exhaust is louder and all they gave was a "yes", so not very helpful folks.
    From my experience, 90+ db starts to get into the "this might bugger up your hearing if you are exposed for a long time" range of noise, but even then I want to be sure. I've heard plenty of loud cars on the road, but I don't know if they aren't just some bogan running an illegal setup.

    Air Filter: https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/...iesta-ST-14-15
    I would be very surprised if I need approval for this. But who knows.
    I don't live somewhere where I drive on dirt roads, so this should do the job right? It looks kind of... open and not very filtery.

    Sound symposer delete: https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/...Fiesta-ST-2014
    I so far don't mind the SS in the Fiesta. It's just extra intake noise that is piped into the cabin. Though I feel with a modded exhaust the SS won't be needed anymore. I kind of doubt this would cause problems, since it's just removing a hose and plugging a hole. I could probably even 3D print my own delete kit.

    Wheels and tires: (I haven't picked any yet)
    My car's wheels already spin in 1st and 2nd, so more grip will immediately give me a quicker 0-100. I also want black or grey rims instead of the stock silver alloy ones the car comes with, and maybe even wider wheels if I can manage it. Though for simplicity I might just go with wheels and tires of the same end dimensions.
    From what I've seen, wheels might need approval as well. I'd rather it again just be something I can do in my father's garage during a visit, then immediately drive home that afternoon.

    Lowered springs: https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/...s-Fiesta-WZ-ST
    My shoe fits in the wheel well, so yeah. Lowered springs.
    So far all I know is that there's a 10cm minimum ground clearance for vehicles in Australia. I'm more of a practical kind of guy, so I don't need to get that low. This is my daily car anyway. I want to be able to drive like I normally do.

    Lip kit: (also haven't decided on anything here)
    The stock car already looks nice enough. But it could be just a little bit cooler. I'd like something sleek and small that will just be noticeable so my car has a unique look. Again, all I know is that the car has to have more than 10cm of clearance and I should be good. But I'm guessing there would still have to be some kind of limit to what can be bolted on.

    Those are all the mods that I realistically want to do with my car. Though I wouldn't mind a Focus RS style wing or maybe different fog lights.
    Also like I mentioned, an aftermarket blow-off valve would be nice too. It doesn't have to be super loud, but I do want to still hear the "Little Turbo That Could" that comes with the FiST over the modded exhaust noise.

    I'd also like to know a bit more about tuning. I've seen devices sold online that are almost $1k for tuning, which I think is excessively expensive. But is tuning even legal here? And is it something I should consider, or should I leave it alone and only do it if I really start modding the engine.
    Also, is this something that a shop can do for me? Is it expensive? I like cars, but I know next to nothing about setting them up properly.
    How will the car computer behave after tuning? Will I have a bunch of angry lights in the dash?
    How will it affect servicing, or changing the battery? Will Ford refuse to touch my car if I want them to do a service?

    I'm really keen to hear any advice you guys might have and absolutely share what you know. Even if it's your own experience when it comes to modding. I want to have a clearer idea of what to do.

  • #2
    Can you even drive a newly modded car on the road without approval?
    Yes, you'll find a guide to what is considered a minor modification somewhere on your states department of transport page.
    So long as it falls under 'minor' they dont need Engineering; just mod and go.

    I know there's something called "VASS certification" that Vicroads wants for modified vehicles, but I'm not good with interpreting legal speak
    No problem! This page here has it in non-legal, plain english.
    https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/regi...al-certificate
    Also the guide they link near the top is your 'bible' for modding.

    What mods are even legal here? It seems like online part shops sell whatever and leave it up to the customer to determine what's legal and what isn't.
    Correct, because things that aren't street legal, are usually track legal. So you can buy what you need.
    Also, your car is usually only held up to the standards by which it was built, so if you drive a pre 1960's car, before ADR came into play, you can (almost) mod anything.

    I'm pretty sure I saw vent-to-atmo BOVs are illegal
    Yes they are, because unless you have a standalone ECU, your car 'loses' metered air, ruining your fuel economy, potentially damaging the bore of the engine by over fueling, and certainly damaging the environment.

    I'm pretty sure MCM has used them. I would like to have one on my car, but I fear I'm shit out of luck. Or are they just legal over in NSW and not here?
    Nope, they're not really legal anywhere (on the street). MCM has used adjustable ones in the past, which are also technically illegal, you just hope the cop isn't a car nerd, and carry on. If you cop a fine, then you revert it back to stock, get the defect cleared, and then argue with yourself whether or not you re-fit it (aka. was the fine worth the enjoyment?)

    And if they aren't legal. What's the solution if I want to upgrade my stock one? All I know is that there's something to do with re-circulation, but I'm not sure.
    How do you mean Upgrade?
    What is it not doing that it should be doing?
    As you say, any recirculating valve should be fine legality wise, but stock valves are normally good up in to the 30 PSI of boost, if not more. I'd question what you're upgrading.
    Lots of people block them off entirely, to get the Choo choo choo noise; anywhere below about 20psi, there's near zero risk of turbo damage.


    And of course, I know I need to tell my insurer (RACV) about any modifications I add to my car.
    Tell them about everything every little bolt and sticker you apply; otherwise if you have an accient, your new parts aren't covered.

    That's a cat back exhaust, so thats fine. You're not modifying the cat, or any other emissions device, go for gold.
    You'll need to make sure it's not too loud however, once it's on. (or, as above, live with it until someone has a problem).
    90db is the Vic limit I think, which is pretty quiet. If it's too loud, take it to an exhaust shop, and have another muffler added.


    That's fine also; but do keep in mind nothing flows, nor filters better than the stock paper filter. Only down side is they need replacing from time to time.
    Fabric ones are washable; thats their only benefit.
    It's also an oiled filter, so you need to be extremely careful running it, because if your MAF sensor gets oil on it, it'll cause havoc with your fueling; and thats usually a $500+ part.

    Feel free, but just be aware it's not quite as good as stock, and it's a risk to your MAF.


    Go for it, such a stupid idea the company had anyway.

    Wheels and tires: (I haven't picked any yet)
    Make sure the rolling diameter is the same (so if you go an inch bigger in rims, make sure you shrink the sidewall of the tire), and the rims and tires don't stick out past the guards, and you're good to go.

    It's funny, because there's actually a WHOLE LOAD of things in every state, in regards to track width and god knows what else; truth is though that nobody can (or knows how) to prove that in a random traffic stop.

    Nice looking wheels are the type of mod where 'if it looks legal, it is', even if it's not :P

    Go for gold. So long as it's above legal height, and the struts bolt to the original factory location, you're fine.

    Lip kit: (also haven't decided on anything here)
    Anything you like; basic rule across all states is "Nothing Sharp", so if you hit a pedestrian, they're less likely to lose a limb.


    I'd also like to know a bit more about tuning. I've seen devices sold online that are almost $1k for tuning, which I think is excessively expensive
    It's extremely cheap, actually.

    But is tuning even legal here? And is it something I should consider, or should I leave it alone and only do it if I really start modding the engine
    You're asking a lot of questions without telling us the goal;
    You said it's your daily drive, so if it's lacking in power? You can probably eek a little more out of it with a tune, and a little more boost.
    Or, since your car needs 95RON fuel, if you decide you're OK with using 98RON exclusively, you can be tuned for a little more timing advance.

    Also, is this something that a shop can do for me? Is it expensive?
    Yes, and (to your mind) yes.
    For a 'Flash Tune' like you've seen out of a little box, you'll look at about $900AUD, for a proper tune at a shop, you'll look at about $1600.
    Really, it's chump change when you consider a single part (like a turbo) can be $3000+.


    How will the car computer behave after tuning? Will I have a bunch of angry lights in the dash?
    How will it affect servicing, or changing the battery? Will Ford refuse to touch my car if I want them to do a service?
    The car will behave however you ask the tuner to tune it.
    You won't have check engine lights.
    It won't affect servicing or batteries.
    FORD won't warranty it, however they'll still service it. Any mechanic will work when you pay them.

    Comment


    • #3
      I think after reading your responses (thanks by the way, really helpful!), I'd want to just improve styling, sound, and grip/handling.

      So I'll probably go with:
      Exhaust
      SS delete
      BOV delete
      Wheels and tires
      Lowered springs
      And at some point that lip kit. Seems most of them come from the UK, and int. shipping right now is terrible. (Birthday present of manga from Amazon US just zooped out of existence)

      Seems like touching the engine components just isn't worth what I want out of my car, which would basically be a unique and neat street car.

      Lots of people block them off entirely, to get the Choo choo choo noise; anywhere below about 20psi, there's near zero risk of turbo damage.
      I managed to find out the stock boost for my car with a quick search

      "When mine was bone stock it wouldn't climb above 19. Now with a downpipe and new charge pipes I frequently see 21-22"

      I am interested in making the BOV go choo choo. Is there any other penalty to doing this other than putting strain on whatever parts the BOV (since it seems like the pressure isn't going to be high enough for that anyway)?
      Also, is this the part that I would want to buy for that? https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/...Mustang/Fiesta

      Yes, you'll find a guide to what is considered a minor modification somewhere on your states department of transport page.
      So long as it falls under 'minor' they dont need Engineering; just mod and go.
      I found these paragraphs under "4. Approved Modifications" in the "Guide To Modifications For Motor Vehicles":

      - any other modification that does not adversely affect the structural integrity of the vehicle, its handling characteristics, the operation of its safety systems or its compliance with the relevant Standards of Registration.

      All of the parts are drop in replacements and/or equivalent equipment with slightly different specs. So unless I'm say, entirely removing something structural or safety and emissions related, then I should be good right? The only things that I imagine could affect this might be the BOV delete and the lip kit.
      They might as well shake my hand for wanting better handling from lower springs and stickier tires.

      - equipment or accessories equivalent in quality, performance and safety to those fitted to the vehicle or supplied or recommend by the vehicle manufacturer as original equipment or accessories

      This sounds like it's specifically talking about replacing factory parts with aftermarket. I guess so long as I'm confident that the parts are just as suitable as the factory ones, it should be fine? At that point the only way that might change is if a cop pulls me over and sees something obviously wrong.

      Also these paragraphs mention the "Standards for Registration", which I assume is just talking about "roadworthyness" right?

      and the rims and tires don't stick out past the guards, and you're good to go.
      I'm just not sure which part of the guard the wheel can't be further out from. Is it the top, or the most outer edge? I believe mine taper in from the top, so the top edge of the guard is the furthest out. Would it mean that furthest out point is where the wheel can't go past and the rest of the guard that slopes in doesn't count?

      Here's what the stock wheel arrangement looks like. You can see how the top of the guard sticks out the furthest. I imagine that's the furthest point the wheel can come out?
      IMG_20200603_012444.jpg

      and (to your mind) yes.
      You read me like a book :P
      I have a couple passions in this world, and money is finite.
      I'll just work around the engine and tune and leave them stock. I think that's going to make the job a fair bit easier.

      Comment


      • #4
        Yep, basically all those things you've highlighted come down to what parts you expect an engineer was involved with (rather than a designer) and some logic.

        For example, in suspension, there would need to be an engineer involved with where the strut bolts, what bits need reinforcement, where the pivot points are, etc etc; basically don't let the car bend itself; have the suspension move correctly.
        While I'm sure the engineer would have been involved in the spring\strut combo decision, I bet that decision was made more with road testing by the designer. Long story short, so long as the strut is bolted to the same spot and still has a similar designed spring, odds are, the safety and structural rigidity is much the same. So a bit of logic says its worth the risk (whether its legal or not; still your call).
        Things like stereos or new plush pile carpet, or gauges (that don't block your view) or such, are all design elements; nothing that affects power of safety.

        I guess you haven't been pulled over much :P
        Cops are people too, and the majority of them aren't car people.
        The ones who aren't simply need to pass the: "Would my mum know this isn't OK?" test. If it looks legal, it is.
        The ones who are: Will usually cut you some slack, assuming your modification is TRULY minor, or an improvement.
        And really, unless you fail the 'attitude test', they usually wont even look.
        I know Victoria is much more strict, with actual EPA tests where QLD (where i am) is not; but EPA tests mainly smog and noise yeah? Just dont modify your stock cat, and make sure to get a noise check, and you're good.

        Blocking off your BOV is usually done with a coke can, and a stanley knife.
        You unbolt the BOV, trace a template, cut it out, then put the new 'gasket' you've made between the BOV and wherever it bolts.
        Really need to see it to advise further.


        For tires\wheels; it's the outer most part of the guard (the top).
        If you can drop a string and a plumb bob, from the top of your guard, and not hit your wheel\tyre, you're good to go.
        Plenty of people push this limit using a bit of camber to 'tuck' the top in, but technically, it's still illegal as the bottom of the wheel is wider than the top of the guard. That's why you'd see the MCM boys bolting on cheap flares.

        That photo explains why you want to upgrade; that's a hideous offset. Looks like you want to come outward almost 2 inches.
        Perhaps an inch wider, and an inch less offset?

        17x8 +38mm looks pretty sick.



        However, this is the sort of fitment that screams "barely legal"; I'd say from directly behind, he's a few mm's outside of the guards.
        If the law worries you so much, you might want to go a little tamer.
        17X7.5 +35, is a fairly common sort of number
        17x8 +40, or +45 is also fairly often found.
        It's a good example of a nearly 'flush' fitment, anyway, so you know where to go from there 5-10mm more inward, and I think you'd be as legal as anyone cares about.

        Comment


        • #5
          Ah thanks.

          I think I have a good idea of how and what to do. You've really helped me out!

          I guess you haven't been pulled over much :P
          I've never been pulled over or fined for anything after driving solo for 7 years, so I kind of want to keep that record going. I don't mind getting pulled over if a cop thinks my car looks fast. I just want to make sure that they'll see everything's in order and leave with a wave.

          Just not sure where to get that noise check though. And if the car fails that, then what? I'd like to not have to pay and have the muffler cut up and re-packed or something. Still not sure whether to go with unresonated or resonated. More research and thinking required...

          Using material from a soda can to block off the BOV is ingenious though. I didn't think of it like that.
          It makes sense, since carbonated drinks usually maintain about 3 Bar or 44psi. So that amount of aluminium will be plenty. Best of all: It'll be cheap!

          I actually don't even know where the turbo is. If it's exposed or within easy reach, I haven't noticed it. I think it might be hidden somewhere behind the engine.
          I suppose the BOV will be somewhere between the manifold and the turbo (that is if I understand how they work). I'll have to look into how to find it and stuff later.

          Good thing on the wheels. I was hoping I could get a bit more width, and it looks like that's doable now. Just a bit of math and measuring and I should be good. The trouble will be finding a set of rims that I like. I want something black or grey that won't be that flashy.

          Comment


          • #6
            Just not sure where to get that noise check though. And if the car fails that, then what?
            Exhaust shop (ask if they can do it).
            If it fails, then have them weld in another muffler.
            Sorry mate, gotta pay to play here, there's no "knowing" till you try.
            If you really wanna be safe, get the resonated. Resonators (IF the company is using the term correctly) usually don't affect noise very much; probably 5-10% at max, they're more for stopping in cabin resonance (drone), hence the name.

            I suppose the BOV will be somewhere between the manifold and the turbo (that is if I understand how they work).
            Unfortunately, you might not :P IF you meant the exhaust manifold. You might be confusing it with the wastegate.
            If you mean INTAKE manifold, then sort of, yes, but it's likely somewhere near the intercooler on stock cars.


            Good thing on the wheels. I was hoping I could get a bit more width, and it looks like that's doable now. Just a bit of math and measuring and I should be good. The trouble will be finding a set of rims that I like. I want something black or grey that won't be that flashy.
            Glad I could help, and for sure avoid the bling bling 90's chrome, but don't go too plain jane.
            Black and Charcoal rims are one of those things that tries to look classy when it's parked, and disappear entirely when in motion.
            Catch22 is that your car isn't designed to be classy; it's designed to be a Hot Hatch; take some inspiration from Golfs, Citroen C2 VTR, Polo's, even Civics!

            Watch the episode where Marty re-does his Mira wheels; the wheel shop won't let him go black centers, even with a bright shiny lip. It just makes the wheel disapear into nothingness. Boring.

            Just type the word "Modifed" then the name of a hatchback into google images, and find some examples. Going too 'careful' on your rims, when you're paying new price (because you'll have you, you have an uncommon stud pattern) is the biggest regret ever.

            You can always spend an extra $150 and get flashy wheels powder coated black or charcoal; anything duller; but there's no way to make a boring rim polished or anodized without significantly more cash.... You can't paint chrome on, but you can cover it up.

            Comment


            • #7
              I've been spending some time looking at wheels and it's hard. I don't know how people do it.

              Good that you mentioned about black rims disappearing in motion, since that's what I've been looking at.
              These wheels come in a few colours. Matte black and this "hyper black" which looks like a Space Grey kind of colour. I like this kind of style https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/wheels/...er-black-wheel

              Also this one: https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/wheels/...k-milled-wheel

              I feel like black will just suit the car more rather than silver, and if I go for the black tips on the exhaust, then having matching rims seems to make sense to me.
              The thing is that the only time myself or anyone else is really going to see the car is when it is stationary. And I can't see the wheels while I'm driving.

              The issue I'm running into is just finding all the specs I need. Neither of these wheels have the offset listed, so I just don't know how they're going to fit. It's quite maddening.

              A lot of the websites I've tried looking on either simply don't have many options, they don't have enough information (how are people meant to order wheels when they don't know the measurements?!), or what they do have is really ugly machined face wheels that you see on all the Commodors.

              It was one thing to understand what all the numbers mean, it's another to find the right sized rims.

              Maybe there's some better websites you might know about?

              And yeah, I guess I still don't know a whole lot about engine parts. If the BOV is near the intercooler (which I assume is where the radiator is), then it should be easier to find and block. Maybe I could drink a coke tomorrow and stick a bit of it in there and see what happens.

              Comment


              • #8
                OzzyTyres will tell you what offset they recommend when you order a rim.
                The automotive world is VERY personal still; telephones are king. Notice how often the MCM boys, Turbo Yoda, Scotty, literally everyone is on the phone, not the internet? Thats why, you need to ask the questions.

                ROTA does some pretty neat looking wheels too.
                https://www.rotawheels.com.au/wheels/

                Jump onto google and type: Red Car white wheels
                Substitute the word white for each colour you'd like to see. (personally I think white suits red really well, with red wheel nuts and valve covers).

                The first one you link is OK, but it'll look very chunky until you lower it.
                The second is just hideous; it's like someone took a BBS rim and stretched out the middle.

                If you were really set on black;
                https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/021-17x...l-tyre-package

                But I find it REALLY hard to go past these:
                https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/avid-av...l-tyre-package

                Even the Tiffany Blue rims actually do something for me; It's SUPER jarring against red, but sometimes, a 'boring car' is fun to make pop on the streets.


                Comment


                • #9
                  Hm. I suppose white rims would work. They would definitely stand out really well.
                  I just really don't want silver. I always thought silver looked kind of cheap. Like the silver heat shields on the stock exhaust of the pre-2013 Honda CBR250Rs.

                  I do quite like the style of the rims on that red car you linked photos of. Those in white would be pretty cool.

                  And those ROTA Grids look quite good. https://www.rotawheels.com.au/wheels/rota-grid
                  Just they come in a PCD of 4x100 and not 4x108 like my car seems to have. Think they'll sort something out if I ask nicely? I like the look of white or gunmetal.

                  I'm pretty shy and I've never been great at phone calls, so I'll give it a go. I wanted to see how much I can do on the internet before I start harassing some poor bloke with dumb questions over the phone.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That red car is called a Honda Civic
                    I'm a bit of a Honda guy; grew up with them as my first car, and their quality is just another level. Most of them aren't quick, but everything always works, and parts always fit. Love them. Anyway!

                    Knowing that photo I shows you was a +38mm; You want to ask what offset they offer that is +38mm or above. See what they offer.
                    You don't want to go much more though, because as you move the wheel inward, you lose space between your suspension components and wheel.
                    Things around the low 40's are common. +40 +42 +45 are all quite a common.
                    The forum I stole that picture from, the guy called it "Flush Fitment" which usually means it's arguable, whether slightly out the guard or not.
                    Just a few extra mm's inwards should fix that, but if you hit your suspension, then there's no fixing that; "wrong offset".

                    The OzzyTyres FAQ says they'll swap them free if they don't fit; so as long as you tell them what car they're going on, they should be nice about making sure you get what you need

                    One of their stores is near me; they're a rough bunch of guys (tyre fitters are...), but seem genuine.

                    https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/avid-av...l-tyre-package

                    avid_av06_gloss_white_01.jpg

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Code:
                      In Victoria the maximum width of any replacement rim can’t be more than 25mm, or one inch greater than the widest wheel specified by the manufacturer for that vehicle or model.
                      The overall diameter of the rim can’t be more than 15mm more than manufacturer specifications, while the rim and tyre are also not allowed to foul the bodywork or suspension.
                      I think your stock wheels are 7 inch? So you're OK with 8

                      205/40R17 is your stock tyre size ( from google)

                      Ideally, you want a 225/40R17 on an 8 inch rim; but that leads to you being somwehere BETWEEN 15mm (2.6%) and 16 mm (2.7%) taller. This is where you're walking the line of "Is it legal?"

                      A 215/40R17 will fit, and be totally legal at only somewhere like 8mm larger; but it'll offer no lip protection; if you gutter the rims, there's no tyre to absorb that.

                      https://tyrestretch.com/results.php?...imMan=&Credit=

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think your stock wheels are 7 inch? So you're OK with 8
                        You're right. I checked again and the stock rims are 7 inches, while the tires are 8 or 205mm. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/fiesta/2014/

                        If that's the case, then I'm now lost on what tire size to go with.
                        Also that tire package is pretty nicely priced for the wheels all ready to go. But are those tires any good? They don't seem to offer any other brands or specific types based on purpose. I was looking at some Pirelli P Zero Neros that are decently cheap for performance tires. I do want to get something that will offer better grip than what I have on at the moment.

                        I did just check, and the previous owner did something odd by putting tires from two different brands on the front and rear wheels. On the front it has a pair of Kumho Ecsta LE Sport tires, and on the back it has Dunlop Direzza DZ102 tires.

                        I have "guttered" the stock wheels before, so my current rims have chips around the edge (some were already there from first owner as well).
                        The stock rims are about flush with the outside of the tire. Having a little bit of rubber protecting the rims would be nice. I want to actually use my car and not be afraid of rims that are poking out.

                        I'm not sure how I'm going to get the offset just right though. I know wheels spacer/shims are illegal for some reason. So maybe the wheel shop does some kind of machining and fitment? I guess I'll just have to measure how much room I have and tell that to the wheel shop and the stock wheel specs.

                        I had a bit of a dig around looking for the BOV and it's somewhere where the turbo is, which is behind the engine...
                        I'm going to need to jack the car and pull the front right wheel off to get at it. And even then, it seems like the "diverter valve" has a protruding part that pokes into where it mounts. So a sheet of aluminium with holes to match the bolt pattern won't fit.

                        I believe this is what the diverter valve looks like:
                        ?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pumaspeed.co.uk%2Fsaved%2FFord_Fiesta_ST_180_Ecoboost_Diverter_Valve.jpg&f=1&nofb=1.jpg

                        I did notice the Turbosmart BOV Cel plug on the store, and when I looked into it, it does something neat. It seems to tell the computer that the DV is a-okay, even when there isn't one there. So if I want that choo choo, I might just have to get that BOV blanking plate and the cel plug. While I am studying a cert II in engineering, and I'm working with lathes and vertical mills, I don't think I have any opportunity to take on an extra project. Even then, I'd need to get the dimensions, and do that while having a usable car.

                        I can try to find a cheaper one. But $75 for a bit of machined aluminium with some O-rings doesn't seem like a great deal.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Well, Stick with 215/40/R17, simple enough.
                          Sort your own tyres.
                          I personally will never go near Pirelli ever again; but that's because a manufacturing fault wrote off my car, and nobody even cared. Didn't even replace the tire that failed. I'm a big fan of Laufenn, if you're going budget. And it really is hard to go past RE003 bridgestones if you're willing to spill some coin on grip.
                          Dunlops are fine, Kumho is OK, Nankang can even be OK, but you need to research which model.....

                          Perfectly normal to replace a pair at a time; lots of people forget to rotate them, so the wear out the fronts before the rear.

                          Nothing stops you going super expensive (semi slicks if you want GRIP; just be careful in the wet) on the front, and just some half decent tyres on the back; so long as the steering never lets go, you should be able to maintain control in any situation.

                          Honestly mate, at this point you're splitting hairs and being cheap.
                          Find wheels you like, and find tyres that fit them, and drive it.
                          If you gutter them, learn to drive better, then bog the damage, repaint, and continue on your way.

                          What do you mean you're not sure how to get the offset right?
                          That's what we've been discussing; ask the shop what they do in the low +40 range, buy those.
                          Since you want to be legal; order some 215/40R17 in your desired brand, and fit them.

                          Spacers are illegal, because it puts pressure on the wheel studs. The wheel studs do NOT hold the wheel, they hold the wheel against the hub, with the hub taking the force. Move the wheel away from the hub, and suddenly the bolts have pressure on them. Big no no.

                          That BOV really is one HELL of a job to get to.
                          https://youtu.be/ZCQxCQUwhFY?t=227

                          https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/...-1.0L-EcoBoost
                          Though that is pretty cool sounding.... And you get to choose how hard the spring is, so you can have it choochoo at low boost, and blow-off at high boost.
                          Perfect example of a mod that is COMPLETELY illegal, but IMPOSSIBLE to get to at a roadside inspection; so its up to you.

                          Really, if I were you, with your limited time and resources, I'd just leave the BOV.
                          I'd spend a night in the shed making a circular blockoff doodad and seeing what happens; but it sounds like you're time and tools poor.
                          Last edited by Master_Scythe; 04-06-2020, 07:10 PM.

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                          • #14
                            The BOV can be something I play with over time. Just trying to gauge what I can and can't do.

                            When I was looking at the fitted wheel and tire packages, I didn't see the checkbox that lets you pick tires from other brands, so now at least I can pick tires that I actually know something about.

                            Thanks for your time and patience though. I'm at least confident in what I want to do with the springs and exhaust. I can always do some bits in stages and do other later on.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Springs are one hell of a job.
                              To this day, I think it's the hardest thing to do on a car, if they're factory coil-over.

                              If the spring is by itself, next to the strut, then it's the easiest.

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