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I'm not an expert on stance, but I believe it requires a certain amount of camber, so the tires sit inside the wheelwells and the edge of the rims are flush with the edge of the wheelwell.
The effect of the wheels tipping into the car is called "negative camber" (positive would be tipping out).
First thing to do is get adjustable coilover suspension. As soon as you lower your car, it usually also develops a little extra negative camber. On some cars, this is enough.
If not, there are several options, depending on your car.
For McPherson struts, there are so-called "Camber Bolts", wich are special designed bolts to change the camber angle of the wheels, by changing the angle on wich the strut attaches to the hub.
You can also get adjustable top mounts to pull the strut in further at the top, also increasing the camber angle.
Some coilover kits also come with additional camber adjustment possibilities, so you may wanna check that out. The AP Sportfahrwerke kit on my Corsa has oval upper bolt holes to increase the camber angle.
With McPherson struts, you also run an increased risk of hitting the strut with the wheel, so you may need wheels with a low offset (often found on dished wheels) or add spacers to lower the offset. This will distance the wheel from the strut.
When you have a solid beam rear axle (many small euro cars tend to have them), you can put a wedge shaped spacer between the beam and the wheelhub. Some just put a few washers on the lower bolts, between the beam and hub. It also works, but is probably a little more dangerous.
Ofcourse, you could also make much thicker spacers that bolt onto the beam and then attach the hub to that, instead of bolt-through with smaller spacers (and longer bolts ofcourse).
And there's the option to cut and re-weld on an angle, wich tends to be something they do in Japan. (look for "oni kyan" or "demon camber" on youtube)
If you have a double wishbone setup or anything else with separate arms, you can change out the upper arm for a special made adjustable one. This pulls in the top of the wheel.
Replacing the lower one pushes out the bottom.
And ofcourse, with all of this, you will need wheels with slightly streched tires. This is nothing more than wheels with tires mounted wich are a tad too narrow, so the walls pull inward. This ensures that the tires do not rub on the edge of the wheelwell.
1994 Opel Calibra 2,0 8v - Loud pipes save lives
1994 Opel Corsa B 1,6 16v GSi - Even louder pipes save even more lives!
Would be a tough episode to make, every car is different, what works for stancing one car, wont work for the next. But they could still do one using rough guides. If one knows what PCD and offset their car runs, and takes some measurements they can use online calculators to get a rough idea of what will give a flush/stanced look.