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engine swap or current engine potential?

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  • engine swap or current engine potential?

    i have just got a 2000 mazda bj 323 astina with a 1.8l fp-de, does anyone know if the fp-de is worth modding or is there another engine swap aside from kl-de someone can recommend?
    a friend has a sr20 from a pulsar i can buy but not sure how to swap would go as i cant find any info on it and havnt measured anything yet?
    thanks in advance guys

  • #2
    If you can get your hands on a F2T...

    Also, you can try to find a KL-ZE, which is the japanese version of the KL-DE (with more power).

    I really don't know how hard can be to swap SR20DE into a 323, but I know it has been done before (not sure about which 323 version, though).
    Last edited by Kullman; 18-06-2020, 04:19 AM.


    • #3
      If you can weld, and know how to build a wiring loom, and splice 2 ECU's into one; then swaps become realistic.
      Otherwise, if you need to ask, they're too hard.

      I can tell you from experience those stock engines handle 14.7psi (1bar) boost just fine, with nothing but bigger injectors (and an ECU).
      If you wanna be paranoid and safe, you can run 7-8psi, which is 'wastegate pressure' on most turbos; you'll never break anything doing that (assuming your'e tuned).

      That said, I don't believe the low boost would even NEED a tune, or even injectors, if you were running low boost.

      Ive had a wideband installed in one of those cars for a while now; in stock form. It goes VERY RICH up the top end.
      think, with a 5:1 FMU (perhaps more) that the stock fuel system would handle boost OK, in the very low numbers.

      Timing will also be (probably) OK, because it's a car thats 'tuned' for 91 octane from the factory.
      As such, the timing will NOT be very advanced, so as long as you run 98RON, you should have the timing side of it covered also.

      Low boost and rich mixture should mean you don't need an intercooler either.

      My mate who own the BJ 323 we built, decided to go intercooled and get a Haltech, because he has money to throw around; but before he decided that, we realised we could get the car boosted and driving for below $1k safely; more like $500 if we wanted to take more risks :P
      Last edited by Master_Scythe; 24-06-2020, 05:05 PM.


      • #4
        info on parts used for the 1k safe build pls?


        • #5
          Originally posted by joshjosh View Post
          info on parts used for the 1k safe build pls?
          The bits I can tell you for sure:

          * A cheap cast iron log manifold from ebay.
          * An ebay 2860 turbo
          * -3 oil feed line.
          * Oil pressure switch T piece (used for the feed)
          * -10 (-8 MIGHT work) oil drain bung (Drilled the oil pan, and just used knead-it to secure it.... I recommend tapping it properly, lol)
          * Reliable Wideband sensor and gauge of choice.

          The 'unknowns' are:

          * Intercooler and piping (you have decide what type, and where).
          * Dump pipe and exhaust (nothing fits 'off the shelf' so you need to weld up what suits you).
          * FMU

          ^ The FMU is the interesting part. I think I'd start with an 8:1 unit, assuming your'e only running wastegate pressure (which is usually 7psi).
          7x8 = 56psi of extra fuel pressure.
          That means you're roughly doubling your fuel rail pressure, which usually results in about 50% more flow through a small injextor.
          This is obviously pulling rough numbers out of my ass; you WILL need to test and try, making sure your fuel ratio is good on boost.
          an FMU won't change the off boost fuel pressure, and ideally you want something like mid 12:1 AFR's when you start to see boost, and somewhere about 11:1, to high 10:1's when at full boost.

          You can skip all that trouble with an aftermarket ECU or a piggyback ECU and taking it to an actual tuner; but it depends if you're trying to hack together a fun project, or you're trying to 'do it right'.

          Ebay parts come out to roughly $800AUD (most of that being the wideband).
          We paid $1600 for a local shop to hard-pipe the entire car (welded intercooler piping, exhaust piping, the lot; no silcone).
          You can probably halve that by doing at least the intercooler yourself, with silicone joiners.

          For the uninitiated the reason this works, is because:
          1. This car was originally tuned for 91 Octane; meaning the timing advance is very low. Using 98 Octane gives you what is sort of a 'lazy' turbo safe tune.
          2. This car runs RICH at the top end already; I guess because it's a mum car, they assume if you're giving it revvs above 4.5k, somethings going on.