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  • Fabricated a bracket and mounted the hall-effect throttle box today.



    I actually picked up an Astra electronic throttle pedal for this, but the owner purchased this potbox and wanted me to use it. Oh well. I opened it up to fix the grommet (the cable had pulled out of it) and took note of the internals. It's just a very small PCB with a hall effect sensor mounted on it and break-outs for the three terminals. A magnet mounted in an arm attached to the lever moves across the sensor. Very simple. I've mounted it un-housed in the engine bay. This is right behind the right headlight and shouldn't see any air flow or water ingress. Looking around at other conversions online, most of these seem to be mounted in the engine bay without any enclosure, so I figure it's okay. While I had the box open, I sprayed some INOX on the board to help keep it from being affected by moisture or humidity. I didn't have any circuit board lacquer handy, and I didn't want to gum up the mechanism with it anyway.

    The clevis is an RC part and I've "crimped" it on to the throttle cable. I'd like to some sort of bush to make the clevis fit a bit better. Right now it's about a 1mm diameter pin floating around in a 5mm diameter hole.

    The cable was a very tight squeeze to install in the clevis, and so with the crimp, I doubt it'll be pulling out. The travel and pedal feel are just about perfect. Very smooth operation. I'm glad I managed to remove the sheath and shorten the throttle cable without damaging it.
    My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
    The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
    My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.
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    • Is there any reason these are not mounted directly to the pivot of the accelerator pedal?

      Looks the goods though! I cant make it out but it appears theres nothing supporting the end of the sheath?
      My "show" (wan|<) car:
      http://forums.mightycarmods.com/show...ing-(Car)Build.

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      • Originally posted by Crazy2287 View Post
        Is there any reason these are not mounted directly to the pivot of the accelerator pedal?

        Looks the goods though! I cant make it out but it appears theres nothing supporting the end of the sheath?
        Mounting directly on the pedal would be more difficult. That's the only reason. There will be a p-clamp holding the end of the sheath to the strut-mount bolt. I just need to grab one. There's also another support further up the sheath that's factory. There will be no adjustment and it's not as necessary on an EV where you don't have to get the throttle plate just-right. The range of travel is calibrated in the controller software at set-up.
        My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
        The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
        My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.
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        • Updated the piccy ey =P
          I'm onto you! *pokes a shifty finger in your direction*


          It's all these little things that will possibly get to you. You can spend ages on them and be really happy with how you've done it but then it git's hidden or becomes un distinguishable.

          If you want a quick way to dress the end of that cable up, slip a piece of heatshrink over it and shrink it. The cable will still slide though if you pick the right size and shrink it well, it will look okay and seal it up from dust and moisture ingress.

          Rock on M.
          My "show" (wan|<) car:
          http://forums.mightycarmods.com/show...ing-(Car)Build.

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          • Originally posted by Crazy2287 View Post
            Updated the piccy ey =P
            I'm onto you! *pokes a shifty finger in your direction*


            It's all these little things that will possibly get to you. You can spend ages on them and be really happy with how you've done it but then it git's hidden or becomes un distinguishable.

            If you want a quick way to dress the end of that cable up, slip a piece of heatshrink over it and shrink it. The cable will still slide though if you pick the right size and shrink it well, it will look okay and seal it up from dust and moisture ingress.

            Rock on M.
            I did update the pic, but I didn't change anything. Just a better quality image (from a real camera, not my phone). The heatshrink is a good idea. I'll be careful not to use the glue-lined stuff ;-)

            Spent a good portion of today messing around with the battery arrangement and trying to figure out the best way to mount them. According to the EV conversion guidelines published by the RTA, the batteries need to be restrained against a forward impact of 20g. For the 74 cells I'm planning to have in the back seat area, at 2kg each, 20g is equal to nearly 3000kg! I'm having a hell of a time coming up with a good way to restrain them, though I have some ideas.

            Here's a quick image from today. I was trying to get my head around where the batteries will sit and where the available attachment points are.


            The latest arrangement is something along these lines:

            Ignore the overlap on the models. The angle needs to be increased for it to fit, but for some reason my program crashes any time I try to change that angle. The layout is correct though. The lowest row is missing cells from the middle so that it clears the raised part of the driveshaft hump seen in the photo above. The top row is missing cells from the outboard ends to account for the fact that the available space is narrower at the top.

            I was thinking about building a battery box to mount under the car where the fuel tank used to be. That would take about half of those cells out of the back seat area and make them easier to restrain. The challenge there is that I'd then have to completely waterproof the box, which would be very difficult to do. A box back there would also not be very easy to work on if I needed to do any maintenance or replacements on the batteries, battery management, or contactors that would also be installed in the box with them.
            Last edited by mauswerkz; 22-07-2013, 11:48 PM.
            My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
            The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
            My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.
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            • Cut the boot out and install a false "drop tank" to install them into?
              Not sure how you clamp them down? But you could use Acrylic or Lexen and use your routing table to cut the holes for the terminals to screw through. Thick enough and it should be rigid and strong enough to keep them together...
              How are you supposed to form them into packs otherwise there doesn't seem to be any sort of interlocking or fixing on them?
              My "show" (wan|<) car:
              http://forums.mightycarmods.com/show...ing-(Car)Build.

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              • Originally posted by Crazy2287 View Post
                Cut the boot out and install a false "drop tank" to install them into?
                Not sure how you clamp them down? But you could use Acrylic or Lexen and use your routing table to cut the holes for the terminals to screw through. Thick enough and it should be rigid and strong enough to keep them together...
                How are you supposed to form them into packs otherwise there doesn't seem to be any sort of interlocking or fixing on them?
                Not going to cut the floor out of the boot because we're keeping the spare tyre. There's enough room under the floor, it's just not waterproof. I think I've figure out a way to fit them all in the back seat area and restrain them.

                They're usually mounted in metal frames fabricated from angle steel. That's how it's been done in other conversions at least. I'll do something similar. I'll probably be using some sort of plastic against the terminals. Probably some HDPE if I can find it.
                My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
                The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
                My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.
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                • Any updates?

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                  • Originally posted by Michael131296 View Post
                    Any updates?
                    Indeed! Though no new photos quite yet.

                    Got the power steering pump installed. Had some custom lines made for it so I could hook up the Astra electric pump. Connected it up to a battery and test ran it. Seems to work fine, though the wheels weren't on the ground at the time. I turned the steering wheel to each lock and the pump strained when I did so, so it seems like it's doing something.

                    Finalized the battery placement. 22 cells will be in the back under the car where the fuel tank used to be. 48 cells in the back seat, and 44 cells in the engine bay above the motor. This should give weight distribution equivalent to the original car with a full tank of fuel and two 65kg passengers in the back seat. I picked up the steel (22 meters of angle steel!) for the battery boxes today. I'll start chopping it up and tacking it together (with my cheapo stick welder) in the form of the boxes over the next week. Then it'll all be welded up by someone with access to better equipment (and skills) than myself. Once that's complete, I can install the batteries.

                    I've sent out requests for quote for the parts I need machined up to mate the motor to the transmission, but I haven't heard back from any of them. This is very frustrating. I guess machine shops aren't interested in doing small jobs. I'm thinking I might just pick up an offcut of round steel from ebay and do it myself, but I think the quality would be much better from a proper shop. The guy who owns the car will be paying for it anyway, but I still have to keep to a budget. It's up to him in the end. Once I have these parts, the motor can be mounted to the transmission and the lot installed in the car.

                    With the batteries and motor installed, I can finally hook up the controller and give the wheels a spin! I'm still hopeful to have it drivable by the end of October.

                    Work would have gone further on it today, but I had to put some time in to my BMW. Got a driveline problem I'm trying to sort out and the parts finally showed up today. I have to finish it up soon if I'm going to make it to a track day planned for next week.
                    My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
                    The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
                    My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.
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                    • *ear perk* Track day you say?

                      I frequent a machine shop down here, dude does good work and isn't afraid of $50 jobs. I'm going there today actually to get some diff spacers made up for the 4x4, i can liase with him if you like?
                      Got a mig down here too if ya' wanna use it. Probably look better tigged though if ya know someone with one...
                      My "show" (wan|<) car:
                      http://forums.mightycarmods.com/show...ing-(Car)Build.

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                      • Originally posted by Crazy2287 View Post
                        *ear perk* Track day you say?

                        I frequent a machine shop down here, dude does good work and isn't afraid of $50 jobs. I'm going there today actually to get some diff spacers made up for the 4x4, i can liase with him if you like?
                        Got a mig down here too if ya' wanna use it. Probably look better tigged though if ya know someone with one...
                        PM me your details and I'll send you the drawings.
                        My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
                        The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
                        My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.
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                        • Here's a rough formula for tool speeds (with hss cutting tool, for carbide multiply the result by 3 or 4 (depends on the job you will.eventually get a feel ) and just fiddle to get your depth of cut) for it , it is far more complicated but it should send you the right direction, CS= cutting speed d= diameter pi= (well im betting you know pi). (d x pi)/12 x CS= tool speed (in rpm) (some handy cutting speeds, tool steel (4140) 60 Feet per min, mild steel 100 Feet per min, aluminium 125 feet per min, alot of plastics can handle speeds of 250 feet per min or above and still get a nice finish) one of the the best books you can get that contains alot of this sort of info is called the engineers black book, usually around $30 should be able to get a hold of a copy from a tafe or uni near you.

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                          • Thanks for the info. I've found a number of sites with tables showing cutting speeds with the formulas you mentioned. The problem is they all go out the window for small bits. I can't fit a bit larger than 6mm diameter on my machine. Luckily, I did find a seller of small bits with their own tables for various materials. I do all my work in metric units, so had to convert them all to mm/min. They seem to work. Having much better luck now with shallower depth of cuts. This machine is not very rigid, so anything more than about 0.25mm is too deep unless I'm just shaving off the side of something. The bit doesn't like to push through material any deeper than that. I just finished up some parts for my BMW made from 12mm thick aluminium, finally got it sorted I think.
                            My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
                            The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
                            My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.
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