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B's S40 T4 Project

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  • BrotherB
    replied
    Originally posted by MHR1294 View Post

    Well that's just my opinion, I've driven some pretty noisy engined cars! hahahaha
    And I havn't driven enough cars, to have a qualified guess. Haha, but I had a mechanic hear it, and he wasn't too worried.
    ​​​​​

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  • MHR1294
    replied
    Originally posted by BrotherB View Post

    My hope is that it's just an un-lubricated lifter, and not a worn one. But good to know it doesn't sound too bad.

    And thanks, I quite like the green glow too. I
    t's just one of those 4xRGB LED strips with a remote, that plugs in the cigaretteligther. Cost me 5 dollars on Wish and then I cut the wires at the plug to reveal a red and a black wire. Then I wired it to the stock footwell light.
    I do need to put a fuse in tho, just to be safe.

    I'm also surprised that it's not common, since it so easy to do. Maybe people are afraid to be called a "ricer"...
    But love it or hate it, it's my project and my love for cars started with Need for Speed: Underground 2
    Well that's just my opinion, I've driven some pretty noisy engined cars! hahahaha

    Leave a comment:


  • BrotherB
    replied
    Originally posted by MHR1294 View Post
    Good stuff!

    Yes, definitely sounds like a worn lifter, doesn't sound too bad though.

    heh, the green is eerie looking. Cool glow to see in the dark. I'm surprised that more people don't still do it. I had purple lighting in my Volvo V70 - only because I bought the wrong LEDs... but it looks not bad, so I left them.
    My hope is that it's just an un-lubricated lifter, and not a worn one. But good to know it doesn't sound too bad.

    And thanks, I quite like the green glow too. I
    t's just one of those 4xRGB LED strips with a remote, that plugs in the cigaretteligther. Cost me 5 dollars on Wish and then I cut the wires at the plug to reveal a red and a black wire. Then I wired it to the stock footwell light.
    I do need to put a fuse in tho, just to be safe.

    I'm also surprised that it's not common, since it so easy to do. Maybe people are afraid to be called a "ricer"...
    But love it or hate it, it's my project and my love for cars started with Need for Speed: Underground 2

    Leave a comment:


  • MHR1294
    replied
    Good stuff!

    Yes, definitely sounds like a worn lifter, doesn't sound too bad though.

    heh, the green is eerie looking. Cool glow to see in the dark. I'm surprised that more people don't still do it. I had purple lighting in my Volvo V70 - only because I bought the wrong LEDs... but it looks not bad, so I left them.

    Leave a comment:


  • BrotherB
    replied
    Update on the project.

    Hey everyone.

    So a bit has happened since I wrote my first post.
    By all accounts, nothing too major, I've been waiting for a couple of things to get my way and some of it arrived earlier this week. Been ordering a couple of different things and planning ahead, for what's to come. Also did some research on how the Volvo engine is put together, hurdles and strengths and I've found a fair bit of parts and upgrades to put on the list.
    Fortunately, I live right next to Sweden and they have their fair share of upgrades for the T4, so I don't have to spend too much on shipping and/or taxes etc.
    So I have some options moving forward with the project... But that's all, in the future.

    For now I still have some maintenance to do. I wanna go through all the rust, clean it up and prevent it from spreading and becoming a real problem. I've been cleaning the engine bay a bit, going through connectors, cables, hoses etc. I see a couple that could use a change, but nothing that requires immediate attention, at least in my opinion. While going through the engine bay i identified the motor and found out that I really did make a fine choice in buying this car.

    IMG_20200925_181214.jpg
    The motor is a phase 1.5, 1855cc B4194T2 from '99 and from what I gathered, these motors have THE engine block when it comes to the T4's.
    It came with forged pistons, relatively strong rods, better oil flow, no VVT and mechanical lifters. They are also called the "holy grail" for tuners.
    The turbo (stock 14T) is also fairly strong and with the standard rods should be able to push 1.8 bar of boost, with a good remap.

    IMG_20200925_181134.jpg
    (I know the coilpacks need new connectors LOL)

    So finding this out made my day just a little bit brighter, but also made me so much more wary of ruining the engine in some way... The engine still "ticks" on one of the lifters and still needs a new MAF, which is on its way. I took a short video of the motor running and what happens when the MAF is reconnected.



    I also bought one of those Bluetooth OBDII ELM scanners and ran a full diagnose scan. The check engine light has been on since I got the car started, so I've been dying to run one of those diagnoses to see what it returned with. And to my surprise and delight, it only returned with DTC:P0103:Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input., which confirms that the MAF is dead (like I assumed) and/or there is a vacuum leak. But I'm excited to see if the new MAF fixes these issues, now that I know it is broken.

    Also took a short video of the exhaust, while reving the engine.


    In addition to waiting for the MAF to arrive, I'm also waiting for a new oil filter and a new drain plug, so I can change the oil to one with a lower viscosity, since I've been reading that Volvo engines in general are really picky with oil, sparkplugs and so on, and the B4194T2 even more.
    So I hope the new oil might be able to lubricate the lifter(s) that are making noise, or I need to take it apart... And that is one thing I fear.
    Also bought a new coolant thermostat and an oil pressure sender/sensor, since I figure I might start changing all the sensors etc. so they are all new and at a 100%.

    Came across a good deal on some Brembo rotors for around 63 USD or 87 AUD (converted from DKK). Last unit sale.
    And they will be a nice change and upgrade for the car, that hasn't had a thing changed the last 8 years, haha.

    IMG_20201006_105005.jpg

    And while waiting for stuff to arrive before I can do some real work on the car, I turned to the interior and installed some new pedals shields from Momo...

    IMG_20201007_211004.jpg IMG_20201007_182202.jpg
    ...and some nice LED lighting, for the footwells. Which turns on when the driverside door is open.
    I'll never be too old for some interior styling.

    IMG_20200925_182305.jpg IMG_20200925_182314.jpg
    IMG_20200925_195719.jpg IMG_20200925_195740.jpg

    Many great things ahead, but I want to get the motor running without any ticking and with a working MAF sensor.
    Before I begin to plan and get really creative.

    -B
    Attached Files

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  • BrotherB
    replied
    Originally posted by MHR1294 View Post
    Yeah so you can get lifter tick from using an oil that's too thick if it's not hot. My 850 used to run 10w60 but I always drove it hard on track etc. When I sold it, I told the new owner to change it back to 10w40... But he didn't and guess what lol, yeah a lifter actually failed.

    So use whatever oil grade is suggested by the stickers on the car.
    That's what I'm gathering. So I wanna try and change it to something less thick and see if that does anything. I just find it hard to believe that the lifter would break from standing still for 8 years... In your case the new owner should've listened, lol.

    ​​​​​​Also found out that it might be solid lifters, can you pour in oil from the inspection holes to lubricate them?

    Didn't know that there's stickers for oil, thought it only was in the owners manual.

    Leave a comment:


  • MHR1294
    replied
    Yeah so you can get lifter tick from using an oil that's too thick if it's not hot. My 850 used to run 10w60 but I always drove it hard on track etc. When I sold it, I told the new owner to change it back to 10w40... But he didn't and guess what lol, yeah a lifter actually failed.

    So use whatever oil grade is suggested by the stickers on the car.

    Leave a comment:


  • BrotherB
    replied
    Originally posted by MHR1294 View Post
    Hey mate, welcome

    Absolutely do not touch the throttle stop screw. The idle control valve controls the engine idle speed and 800rpm is exactly where it should be. The correct MAF will likely sort it when you fix your wiring issues. You might still be pulling some old fuel though too

    The Volvo forums are risky for information at best.

    Ticking could be a lifter, obviously that's something you need to hear in person. Definitely fit genuine lifters, aftermarket ones don't seem to last. At least the ones for my 850 didn't
    Thanks!

    I will not touch the screw then. I was just a bit worried that 800 RPM was too low, but if it's as it should be then I'll just leave it. I also hope that the MAF will fix some of the issues regarding the idling and yeah, I might still be pulling old fuel through as you say. Sometimes when it's idling its like it something goes through the motor that chocks it a bit, then it returns to normal.

    There is some conflicting information sometimes but I like to get different inputs before I do anything... and I haven't had much luck getting any replies on the Volvo forums to be honest.
    Don't know if they aren't that active?

    I might put up a video of the motor running, so I can get some more eyes and ears on it. Also got asked if it gets enough oil pressure in regards to the lifter tick, so that's also something I wanna look into, might change the oil for 5w30 instead and see if it makes a difference (based on something I read regarding Volvo turbos and this particular engine). But with the MAF not working, I'm thinking I should start there.

    And thanks for the heads-up on the aftermarket lifters.
    Last edited by BrotherB; 26-09-2020, 07:26 PM. Reason: Clarifying a bit

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  • SBC
    replied
    Originally posted by BrotherB View Post
    (No engine parts were hammered with the rubber mallet, lol)

    Well now I'm disappointed.

    Leave a comment:


  • MHR1294
    replied
    Hey mate, welcome

    Absolutely do not touch the throttle stop screw. The idle control valve controls the engine idle speed and 800rpm is exactly where it should be. The correct MAF will likely sort it when you fix your wiring issues. You might still be pulling some old fuel though too

    The Volvo forums are risky for information at best.

    Ticking could be a lifter, obviously that's something you need to hear in person. Definitely fit genuine lifters, aftermarket ones don't seem to last. At least the ones for my 850 didn't

    Leave a comment:


  • BrotherB
    started a topic B's S40 T4 Project

    B's S40 T4 Project

    Hello everyone!

    This is my tread detailing my journey with and progress on the 1999 Volvo S40 (R) T4, I recently bought.
    I have been looking for a car to drive daily and a car that had something special to offer and a car I wanted to sacrifice my time, energy and money on (whether I made the right choice, is to be seen). Ideally it would be my daily driver, my money pit and my ongoing project car. Also just to get it out of the way; I'm not a mechanic and I've not been tinkering with cars for that long, so if I get anything wrong, please correct me. I get most of my info online, on forums, videos or asking people I know. But here it goes;

    One day I was browsing used cars as I sometimes do and stumbled upon a guy selling a Volvo S40. The car had been standing in a garage for about 8 years, had been tuned in Sweden to 240 HP and that was all the ad pretty much offered in terms of information, also had some pictures of the car. The car was just listed as "S40 2.0T" but I noticed the T4 badge and what I believed to be the B4194T engine. For those who don't know, these cars (S40s) were BTCC and ASTC winners in the 90's, and there are some S40 T4s out there with 400+ HP. I don't think its the most sought after car, but they are awesome. I'm aware that some people like to pretend and put on fake badges just for fun, or to try and tick people, so I took the "R" and "T4" badge with a grain of salt... Still, I decided to contact the guy.

    And to make a longer story short, the asking price for the car was around 788 USD or around 1100 AUD (converted from DKK) and after some back and forth with the guy and everything checking out (registration papiers etc.) and it actually being a T4, I bought it.

    The car arrived shortly after on a flatbed:


    The car is in pretty good shape on the exterior, not much to see. Except for some scratches, some small bumps and bruises. And maybe a minor rust repair job on one of the front panels, or just a replacement. For those who might have spotted the exhaust, I believe the seller said it was 2.5" stainless steel cat-back exhaust and that's also what it looks like.
    All in all, the exterior (at least the visible parts) looks fine to me, all things considered.

    The car had not been running for those 8 years in the garage, and it came with 20L (around 5 gallons) of gas in the tank which has been sitting for those years. The seller told me that he wouldn't even try to start the car before changing all the fluids, and I can only say that I agreed with that. So first things first I got the car jacked up and put on jackstands. I started with draining the old coolant, that to my surprise was still green (only seen old coolant come out like a brown mess lol), I took it as a good sign considering it being locked up in there for so long, also might be a bad sign. I then drained the engine of oil, which also looked good. No nasty surprises in that department. I struggled with getting the housing/casing for the oil filter off, since it was almost glued to the engine but I got it off and changed the oil filter.

    Next was emptying the gas tank...
    While I do know some "things" about cars, I was unsure as to how I was gonna empty the tank most effectively. I started off by taking out the old gas filter, to replace it and hopefully let the gas run out that way. But... It didn't. I elected to siphon out the gas the old fashion way (tastes pretty bad) and eventually got it "empty" or as empty I could get it. I finished off by filling up on new coolant and oil, I elected to run with Shell HX8 5w40 motor oil.


    (No engine parts were hammered with the rubber mallet, lol)

    Next day, I started off with putting on a couple of gallons of new gas and I bled out as much air from the coolant as I could without running the car. Then I tried to start the car to find out that the battery was drained and needed a jump. So I got the jumper cables on and tried starting up the car. The first couple of tries the engine fired a couple of times then died, I tried this a couple of times with no success. I then when to check the sparkplugs to find that they could also need a change, so off I went to get new spark plugs...
    While changing the sparkplugs I noted that the coilpacks are NGK, which I believe aren't stock, I also noted that the connectors for the coilpacks are rather degraded. I got the sparkplugs changed, everything put together and went to start up the car. The car once again fired up for a second, then died. I tried this a couple of times again, but with no greater success.

    With everything seemingly in order, oil changed, coolant changed, filters changed, new gas and sparkplugs. I was almost at a loss for what the problem could be. I dreaded that my decision to buy the car had been stupid one (might still be)... I pondered a bit, 'cause it sounded like the engine didn't get enough air and chocked out every time I tried to start it. I had an old '99 Audi A4, some time back that had a real rough idle, one of the "tricks" I learned from that car, was that if the MAF sensor is broke or reading incorrectly, the engine won't get the air it needs or too much. By unplugging the MAF sensor, you can let it default to the ECU and if it gets better, the MAF sensor is probably busted, at least that what I've gathered.
    So I unplugged the MAF sensor, and a few turns of the key later we were running. Running pretty rough, but running.

    The MAF sensor is definitely broke, every time I plug it in the engine won't run and if I plug it in while the car is running, the engine chokes and stops dead. I've checked the connector with a multimeter and it does supply 12V, so I do believe that it is the MAF that is the problem. The car also shows the "check engine light" and sound? but I think that's because of the sensor. So I need to order a new one of those.

    So, I had the car running which was somewhat of a success. Apart from the fact that it sounded like I was about to go fishing. So the engine wasn't firing on all the cylinders, and I admit: I'm no mechanic and I'm still learning. But lucky me a truckdriver who was offloading of some things, heard my S40 T4 "fishing boat" idling and came to take a look, LOL. He showed me how to check which cylinders was firing and which wasn't, by unplugging the coilpacks one by one, with the car running. While doing so, I noticed that one of the wires was arcing on the engine block.. Which I found disturbing. The weird thing was that all the coilpacks where arcing on the sparkplugs (you could hear them arc on the plug when they got near them, as they should), so they should've been able to create a spark and fire on all cylinders. After some tinkering with the coil packs and wires (also some cleaning), and putting them in the right order, I got the car running "smooth" that is to say that it was and still is firing on all cylinders, no longer arcs on the block and no longer sounds like a fishing boat. But I really need to go over those wires, connectors and coilpacks, perhaps change them to new ones.

    By this stage I had the car running, everything was working, the temps were fine, oil level were fine and the car was running.
    Some problems still that needs answers are, a yet to be determined ticking sound from the engine itself (mechanic friend believes it might be a lifter), MAF sensor needs replacement and what I think is a rather low and a little rough idle at around 800 RPM. I read about an "idle screw" and might try and open that up a bit more? Ideally it should be idling at around 1000 RPM?
    Also thought about getting some carburetor cleaner, and but some of that in the system to "clean it" and see if it makes a difference?

    I had the car out on the road the same day to test it.
    Everything interior works, powered windows, blinkers, A/C, cruise control, lights, dashboard, gauges, powered mirrors, heated seats, etc. Power steering works, gear changing is good, brakes are O.K, suspension a bit stiff but it works, turbo spins right up and lots of torque steer and wheel spin, if you floor it. Not bad for a car with 130k miles and 8 years in a garage.
    As of right now, I have driven the car around 200 miles with no major problems, except for the "valve ticking"...

    Also have a lose connector in the passenger side footwell that I cant figure out?
    Really need to find a manual for the car, lol.


    Anyways, that's the current state of the S40 T4. Still some things to go through and get a bigger overview of what needs to get done, but making progress. Also wanna check with OBD, maybe look at changing the timing belt + waterpump and new a radiator, just for good measure and definitively finding the source of the "ticking".

    Feel free to give suggestions on things I can try regarding my issues, problems you see or foresee, etc.
    I would really appreciate it!

    -B

    Below you can see how it looks atm.


    Last edited by BrotherB; 11-10-2020, 03:04 AM. Reason: misspelling
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