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My '95 Calibra! My Bute! XD

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  • #46
    Originally posted by McKaamos View Post
    When it comes to Calibra parts, try Ebay Germany.
    Many car parts suppliers and tuning/styling parts sellers run their company almost exlusively through Ebay there.
    Shops like Autoteileman, Auto Teile Pollath, Autoteile Preiswert, Scholl Opel Ersatsteile (definately intersting, Opel only shop, so also for your Calibra), etc.

    You do need to know the german names for parts, but definately worth the effort. Most of them also ship worldwide, and Germans are bound by the TüV regulations, wich specifies that all replacement parts need to be at least a certain quality, so it'll never be noticably worse than GM original parts.

    By the way, could you make a close-up picture of the side indicators? I have this strange suspiscion that they are the exact same indicators that are found on the Corsa B/Holden Barina. Those are also found on Vectra A's and some other Opel cars. Since Calibra's usually do not have those indicators out here, you might be able to get a set for a Corsa B that'll fit, for less than 10 AUD.

    small edit:
    Black side indicators for a Corsa B, Corsa C, Tigra, Astra F, etc
    http://www.ebay.nl/itm/OPEL-CORSA-B-...item43a66a7591
    And white ones:
    http://www.ebay.nl/itm/OPEL-CORSA-B-...item43a66a65eb

    I'd say, also get a set of chromed T10 wedgebase bulbs with them, so you dont have an orange glow peeking through when they're switched off. Would look maaaaaaaad
    It sounds like a plan man! yeah I took some pics for you.. looks like Rocket beat me to it!
    I'll definitely have to check out Ebay Germany. Cheers for the help mate! Those chromed bulbs sound SICK! XD

    Originally posted by Rocket View Post
    I advise you to join www.clubcalibra.com everything you would ever want to know about a Calibra is there
    Funny thing mate! I joined last night actually. You're too right! Its calibra central there

    Comment


    • #47
      Photos from today!
      Im considering replacing the Holden Badges with Opel ones! The current holden ones are looking dated and show their age! Im also considering a chrome "calibra" badge for the rear as a replacement like the V6 calibra badge.. Can anyone recommend where I can order from?












      Comment


      • #48
        Sweet pics mate! Lookin' beautyfull

        As far as badging goes: Opel models don't have the round badge on the back, so that can be taken off to make it Opel-like.
        The front one is a bit trickier. Pre-facelift models like mine have the round badge on the bonnet, facelift models have it in the upper grille like yours.
        Difference there is that a true Opel does not have the "V" surrounding it. Thats Vauxhall/Holden only. Looks like it is part of the bumper, so if you want to make it really european, you'd have to swap the bumper.
        1994 Opel Calibra 2,0 8v - Loud pipes save lives
        1994 Opel Corsa B 1,6 16v GSi - Even louder pipes save even more lives!

        Comment


        • #49
          I always liked these.

          Got put off when I heard they are a money stealing hole on wheels...

          Any truth to that?
          1979 Porsche 924 Coupe
          1988 Celica SX Hatch
          1994 BMW 328i Coupe
          1996 Mercedes 280 Sports
          2004 Toyota Kluger
          2005 Subaru WRX Club Spec Evo 8 (Current)

          Comment


          • #50
            Well, at least not to me.
            Goes for pretty much any base model engine (up to 150bhp). New parts are relatively cheap and can be sourced from other models like Astra's, Vectra's or even some Saab models.

            If you decide on a bigger engine, you might want to watch out for the Turbo 4x4 models.
            It's not that those are bad cars but they get treated wrong a lot, so finding one in good condition is hard. The 4x4 transfer box is usually busted. Can be destroyed by running different sized tires front and back. Even uneven wear can cause it. You should swap front and back every 5000 to 10000km.
            There's also a sort of pressure vessel (dont know the english name) that wears out over time and should be replaced every 10 years or earlier. If you dont, you can fry the viscous clutch inside the 4x4 transfer box.
            Some people just replace the clutch inside the 4x4 case with a rigid plate (normally its a multiplate wet clutch, just insert rings with teeth on inside and out to make it rigid) and disconnect the electronics to make it a permanent 4x4.
            Turbo is can be an issue too if you don't warm it up before really blasting off and cool it down (idling for 30sec to a few minutes, turbo timer wil fix it) after driving. And ofcourse make sure the oil supply to the turbo is good and doesn't run too high pressure. There's a 15 euro bolt, usually called the "magic bolt" or "wonderbolt", for the oil connection that is pressure sensitive and bleeds off any overpressure.
            If you have one in good condition, just make sure to swap the front and back wheels regularly, let the car idle after each drive and install that bolt. You'll be fine.
            If it's already busted it'll cost a fair amount of money to fix or replace the 4x4 and turbo, but I'd recommend investing in the permanent 4x4 and maybe swap the turbo for a new one (and don't forget to get that bolt too).

            V6's are usualy pretty solid. Very strong engine, doesn't need much, but can be a great big hassle when replacing the timing belt. Physical enginesize compared to the engine bay is a pretty tight fit. V6's never come with 4x4 btw. No space for the transferbox. You'd need to create space by cutting the firewall up.
            V6's do have a tendency for leaking oil-to-water cooler gaskets. It sits in between the banks so it's a bit hard to get to. The oil cooler sits in a bath of coolant and has a plate over top. It'll leak from the gasket that seals the plate. Most just take it out, put a plate on and use an external oil cooler. It'll never be a problem again.

            Last thing is rust. When you live in a place with a wet climate, older Calibra's (pre-1997) can rust pretty bad. If yours is good, make sure to give it an annual check and use some protective coatings to make sure it won't rust.
            1997 models have an extra coating on the metal that prevents rust, so those usually do not rust.
            1994 Opel Calibra 2,0 8v - Loud pipes save lives
            1994 Opel Corsa B 1,6 16v GSi - Even louder pipes save even more lives!

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by McKaamos View Post
              Sweet pics mate! Lookin' beautyfull

              As far as badging goes: Opel models don't have the round badge on the back, so that can be taken off to make it Opel-like.
              The front one is a bit trickier. Pre-facelift models like mine have the round badge on the bonnet, facelift models have it in the upper grille like yours.
              Difference there is that a true Opel does not have the "V" surrounding it. Thats Vauxhall/Holden only. Looks like it is part of the bumper, so if you want to make it really european, you'd have to swap the bumper.
              Cheers mate! Always gotta look for good lighting to really capture your car well!

              I was thinking of maybe putting one on the back anyway? Like it would be nice to show cars as they stare at my behind that yes my car is a European car. (Tho sold and badged as a Holden).
              I’ve had a few people say that the V grille badge can come off so I’m thinking replacing the badges with an opel badge that fits? But im not sure if its an easy task.. one in doing it right and second in sourcing the badges to start off with.

              Originally posted by Stumps View Post
              I always liked these.

              Got put off when I heard they are a money stealing hole on wheels...

              Any truth to that?
              I love my Calibra and would never take it back. It’s a car you fall in love with. The unique styling and feel is unmatched. True they can at times be a pain but mine so far hasn’t given me big dramas! Fingers crossed!
              Quite a bit from McKaamos above there but like any car that isn’t well maintained and looked after can hurt your pocket. Always keep in mind that any European car outside of Europe will always have parts that are harder to come by and importing is so expensive. Don’t forget as any car that ages.. problems are inevitable. Thought it seems in a general sense that Calibras are high maintenance cars.. finding one in good nick is the challenge for the smart!

              Originally posted by McKaamos View Post
              Well, at least not to me.
              Goes for pretty much any base model engine (up to 150bhp). New parts are relatively cheap and can be sourced from other models like Astra's, Vectra's or even some Saab models.

              If you decide on a bigger engine, you might want to watch out for the Turbo 4x4 models.
              It's not that those are bad cars but they get treated wrong a lot, so finding one in good condition is hard. The 4x4 transfer box is usually busted. Can be destroyed by running different sized tires front and back. Even uneven wear can cause it. You should swap front and back every 5000 to 10000km.
              There's also a sort of pressure vessel (dont know the english name) that wears out over time and should be replaced every 10 years or earlier. If you dont, you can fry the viscous clutch inside the 4x4 transfer box.
              Some people just replace the clutch inside the 4x4 case with a rigid plate (normally its a multiplate wet clutch, just insert rings with teeth on inside and out to make it rigid) and disconnect the electronics to make it a permanent 4x4.
              Turbo is can be an issue too if you don't warm it up before really blasting off and cool it down (idling for 30sec to a few minutes, turbo timer wil fix it) after driving. And ofcourse make sure the oil supply to the turbo is good and doesn't run too high pressure. There's a 15 euro bolt, usually called the "magic bolt" or "wonderbolt", for the oil connection that is pressure sensitive and bleeds off any overpressure.
              If you have one in good condition, just make sure to swap the front and back wheels regularly, let the car idle after each drive and install that bolt. You'll be fine.
              If it's already busted it'll cost a fair amount of money to fix or replace the 4x4 and turbo, but I'd recommend investing in the permanent 4x4 and maybe swap the turbo for a new one (and don't forget to get that bolt too).

              V6's are usualy pretty solid. Very strong engine, doesn't need much, but can be a great big hassle when replacing the timing belt. Physical enginesize compared to the engine bay is a pretty tight fit. V6's never come with 4x4 btw. No space for the transferbox. You'd need to create space by cutting the firewall up.
              V6's do have a tendency for leaking oil-to-water cooler gaskets. It sits in between the banks so it's a bit hard to get to. The oil cooler sits in a bath of coolant and has a plate over top. It'll leak from the gasket that seals the plate. Most just take it out, put a plate on and use an external oil cooler. It'll never be a problem again.

              Last thing is rust. When you live in a place with a wet climate, older Calibra's (pre-1997) can rust pretty bad. If yours is good, make sure to give it an annual check and use some protective coatings to make sure it won't rust.
              1997 models have an extra coating on the metal that prevents rust, so those usually do not rust.
              Quite a bit to think about but true any car that needs attention cannot be half arsed and must be well maintained. The turbo and 4x4’s seem a handful if not treated right! Definitely a car not for the feint of heart. Would love to drive one someday though.

              Comment


              • #52
                The new 17" Rims! DONE :P





                Comment


                • #53
                  You now need to get it sitting right

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Oh those are sexy wheels, mate!
                    1994 Opel Calibra 2,0 8v - Loud pipes save lives
                    1994 Opel Corsa B 1,6 16v GSi - Even louder pipes save even more lives!

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Re: My '95 Calibra! My Bute! XD

                      Cheers guys yeah the new rims are looking amazing to me as well really makes the car sit so much better! Way better than the factory alloys. The Calibras are pretty streamlined as they are hey.. More low is definitely down the track :P

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        What's the tire size and rim size (incl offset)?
                        You may not be able to lower it at the front if the wheels are extending out too far. The edge of the front fender is pretty wide (extending inwards) and it may scrape on the tires when lowered.

                        Seems to happen on many smaller engine Calibra's, but not all. I don't yet know why this doesn't happen on all of them tho. Might be a modelyear thing.
                        Mine does have this "issue" as does the Calibra of a mate of mine. Both 2.0i 8v 115bhp engine models, both pre-facelift, 1995 is the facelift year.
                        The way your wheels sit looks like it's going to be a problem when lowering. You may wanna feel under the edge to see how much clearance there is, before you start lowering.
                        1994 Opel Calibra 2,0 8v - Loud pipes save lives
                        1994 Opel Corsa B 1,6 16v GSi - Even louder pipes save even more lives!

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Re: My '95 Calibra! My Bute! XD

                          Originally posted by McKaamos View Post
                          What's the tire size and rim size (incl offset)?
                          You may not be able to lower it at the front if the wheels are extending out too far. The edge of the front fender is pretty wide (extending inwards) and it may scrape on the tires when lowered.

                          Seems to happen on many smaller engine Calibra's, but not all. I don't yet know why this doesn't happen on all of them tho. Might be a modelyear thing.
                          Mine does have this "issue" as does the Calibra of a mate of mine. Both 2.0i 8v 115bhp engine models, both pre-facelift, 1995 is the facelift year.
                          The way your wheels sit looks like it's going to be a problem when lowering. You may wanna feel under the edge to see how much clearance there is, before you start lowering.
                          uploadfromtaptalk1352110819988.jpg

                          I actually like the current look with the offset not sure if you can see from this pic. It's on 215/45/17's. Offset I'm not sure.. I saw a figure 17x7..? They are 17inch rims.
                          For the time being I'm in no rush to lower.. With these 17's the car sits much better.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            HAPPY NEW YEARS MIGHTY CAR MODDERS!
                            May your troubles last as long as your New Years Resolutions!

                            UPDATE TIME!

                            With the help off my good mate Eddey, My Cali is on its way to being opelised.. rear badging for starters!
                            Thanks again Eddey for these Bad Boys!


                            These Premium XX plates are going on soon too!


                            Thats all for now! just some minor Aesthetics work that will make her pop im sure!

                            ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

                            Some photos from Sunset in the hills! 28/12/12









                            Last edited by SAMARAI; 03-01-2013, 09:43 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              The Premium Plates are on! (1 year later..) lol

                              Last edited by SAMARAI; 03-01-2013, 08:50 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Rare to find one of these in ANY condition these days. I looked for one for ages back when I was on my P's and no go.

                                Looks really clean. Thought about removing or painting the black side/front plastic strips?
                                3.7L VQ37VHR Nissan 370z(The Raptor)
                                5.7L LS1 VY Calais (The Brontosaurus) → FOR SALE ←

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