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BlueBetty - Crazy2287's Boring (Car)Build.

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  • BlueBetty - Crazy2287's Boring (Car)Build.

    Thought if im going to be active here i should have a thread so it dose not look like im some random dude that runs his mouth off.
    Here it is. The bane of my existence. the reason i know so much about cars because i never stop working on this bloody thing.
    Everything you see in this thread i have done myself unless it required some sort of machining on a mill or the likes to specific exacting tolerances. Cuz' generally you cant do that with a 4" angle grinder. (I've tried >.> )

    I didn't put this in the build thread section as i wont be updating that sort of thing here. If you want to see that roll on over to Xfalcon and check me out there. i have pages and pages of crap there you can waste your life on if you feel so inclined.
    If anything you will see that there's nothing you can't do. I wasn't born been able to do these things. I didn't just 'know' how to panel beat or paint or build an engine. I've screwed up plenty and i still do but im not scared to have a go and always intend to do it right. always get opinions and do your research. don't listen to any one opinion but the opinion of many and then make your own opinion. I hate when people feel like "it should be left to the experts" because that's not always the case. these experts were novices at some point and there's nothing stopping you from learning these things other then your own perception... and maby your wallet.
    Now if only id fallen in love with a car more suited to been sporty and less to been a 80's family sedan =P

    Moving on from the motivational stuff.

    As current:
    1987 Ford XF falcon.
    6cylinder 4.1 ltr naturally aspirated.
    Aftermarket MS1-ECU on v2.2 board running MSnS-E for fuel and spark.
    Yella terra rollers non adjustable.
    hydraulic camtech CT142528 cam with 534' lift
    110lb double sprung (dampener type) valve springs
    ported intake side of head (exhaust left factory, these heads are over-exhausted and exhaust ports are often left to maintain exhaust gas velocity.
    ported injector body from factory 34 to 38 to match intake, tapered to 40 to match adapted e series broadband manifold.
    acl race pistons balanced with crank, balancer and flywheel.
    pacemaker extractors 3-2-1 to 2.5" mandrel exhaust
    electric davies craig waterpump

    Exceedy HD sports clutch and pressureplate and a quartermaster hydraulic throw-out bearing mod. also known as a concentric slave cylinder and bearing.
    late series T5 (5 speed manual)
    e series 28 spline 4 pinion center 3.23 ratio LSD (diff)
    stock rear rotors
    235mm wide shoes rear
    DBA roopaw vented, slotted rotors and bendex ult's breaks on the front
    225mm shoes front
    1" front upper control arm drop (the 'shelby drop'. it increases camber rate)
    modified upper ball joint mounts
    all suspension components rebushed with polyurethane
    pedders superlows fronts with pedders bigbore shocks
    upper shock mount spacers
    rear shock tower height increased.
    lovells lows rear with stock Monroe rear shocks
    tail shaft tunnel chopped and height increased to increase tail shaft clearances.
    exhaust has been solid mounted and close to body to increase ground clearances.

    2005 series alpine
    2x type-X 12" woofers
    2x mrd1005 1000wrms alplifiers
    1x mrp4.100 (4x100wrms) amp
    6.5" r type splits rear
    5x7 r type splits front
    134.3db @ 52hz

    interior is stock
    35watt HID conversion
    thermo fan
    120A altinator
    600cca cranking battery front
    deep cycle battery rear capacity unknown, i think it was 35Ah?(for audio, to supplement the potential 400A draw)
    viper alarm, keyless entry and boot popper.
    tinted windows

    Want to see how i built it? Check my build thread on X-falcon

    engine bay is currently under renovations but this is what it looks like as of right now. will be tidying it up this week

    Update : 8Feb12



    Some rubber

    Some damage, but not more then i anticipated.

    List of latest mods:
    intake Manifold + support
    Catch can
    Entire exhaust
    Electric waterpump
    intake duct and filter
    timing gear
    tach mod on ECU
    Manifold control mod on ecu
    e-series accelerator pedel + cable and made up a cable adjuster


    taken tonight while i was doing a post eng work oil change and making a supporting bracket for the extractors near the bellows.

    At wakefield park (trying to get ready to go again.)

    *Edit* New vids:

    Last edited by Crazy2287; 12-02-2012, 11:28 AM.
    My "show" (wan|<) car:

  • #2
    What a Clean Car
    Looking Nice and Sound Nicer
    DreaM BiG


    • #3
      Lumpy ;-)

      Did you do the tint yourself? I saw that you did a big writeup about it in the video suggestions forum. Any tips on removing old tint? I'm thinking about buying pre-cut tint for my car and redoing it. One window has been replaced since the tint was put on and they didn't tint the replacement. It's probably faded a bit by now too.
      My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
      The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
      My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.


      • #4
        Removing - no i have never done it. however i would recommend the usual, use a razor to lift a corner and a heat gun to soften. slowly peel it off in 1 piece if possible, use heat to assist. alternatively, if your removing the windows you can bath in thinners. probably the eazyest way since hte galss wont be affected by it. If you don't wanna bath (as i wouldent) then you can get a small piece of rag. saturate it in thinners and lay it doubled over on the tint for a couple of minutes. it SHOULD eat the tint to bits and you can peel/rub it off with a perspex scraper. but i wont guarantee anything.
        No, i didn't tint my car. I had the tint done about 5 years ago before i knew how to tint and apply stickers.
        When i was panelbeating there was a window tinter next door. i went over a few times to learn the process, was a good bloke. and now my misses is a signwrighter and they often do car vinyls and wraps.
        Last edited by Crazy2287; 13-12-2011, 02:55 PM.
        My "show" (wan|<) car:


        • #5
          Mad. I'm most worried about removing the tint from the rear window. I don't want to damage the heating elements for the demister.
          My Facebook page - My YouTube channel - mauswerkz on Twitter
          The mauswerkz 300zx EV build thread.
          My 1992 BMW 318is Coupe, soon to be battery powered. Technical progress in this thread.


          • #6
            Yes, they are fragile and you cannot solder them. You have to use a glue that has a copper content. its quite expensive. I doubt the thinners will affect the demister though. but i cannot be sure on that.
            If you wanted the same tint, then any decent tinter should be able to sell you a tint that will match whats currently on your car.
            I had to do that for my tint then i changed a front window and the rear window.
            My "show" (wan|<) car:


            • #7
              Not bad! Looks like it has some grunt about it >: D
              "Front wheel drive can drift-not-really-just-does-hand-brakies-around-corners."

              Originally posted by phoenx
              what if there was a newspaper for this thread? it would be the STD, social thread daily...


              • #8
                Thanks AUSupra. I'm working on it. it's not too bad for a 24 year old family sedan.
                My "show" (wan|<) car:


                • #9
                  Nice ride, I personally wouldve stuck with a simple two tone if i was to go down that road, but i dont mind the falcon all that much.
                  Originally posted by fitridebmx
                  break it off and put it back on with zip ties
                  Originally posted by Jenga
                  So we don't have to remove our A-holes anymore? Where's the fun in that


                  • #10
                    Thanks, I just wanted something different. The horizon blue grows on ya. I was having a hard time picking a color. I originally wanted to keep the horizon blue to reduce the work when we painted it. It saved alot of cutting in on guards and eng bay and boot. but in the end we went all out and painted all that anyway.
                    At least i can say i have the only baby blue and purple pearled black 2 tone xf falcon with an fpv falcon logo on the bonnet.
                    Im not gonna make the track this year though, it seems. I'm still waiting on the replacement bees nees coil and gotta install the controller circuit on the ms to work the BB-manifold after i get that running i have to tidy the looms
                    I'll try and make it January next year before i have this surgery on my wrist otherwise i'll be out for another 6 weeks before i'll be able to go and im KEEN ASSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
                    My "show" (wan|<) car:


                    • #11
                      Spent the afternoon on it. 1500-2100h (6 hours) and managed to trace and repair a broken solder joint in the spout wire and re assemble all the looming i had dismantled for the trouble shooting.
                      Did some tests and found all the spark wiring was go, MS ecu on (the switch i put in to allow me to carry out testing without unneeded power draws is already helping alot) and the output was set to inverted no which gives me 0V on the spout wire. Goood.
                      Pulled the plugs and tested for spark. was a bit shitty. Upped my cranking pulse width from 3ms to 5ms and all was good..
                      Checked the coil, it was not getting hot. Although i blew the 5amp slow blow fuse so i went back up to a 10A fast blow.

                      Then tried to configure the BBM switch and it wasent working. had a look... DAHHH dum crazy is dumb, It's a switched earth so i have to give it 12v. Its grounded with a pnp type so cant hook straight to battery or it earths when no power is in the MS-ecu, so hook it up with 12v ign. Ran the wire for that and tested the switching using TPS. managed to get about 5-6 full switches of the pneumatic gate with the vacuum in the vacuum tank. So that whole setup is sweet.

                      Reset the switch to go off rpm and set it low to 1200rpm.

                      Started the car and tuned in the idle. then tested the bbm switch, worked perfectly. Put the switchpoint back up to 3200, took the car off the stands and gave the shed a good clean.
                      Was going to go for a drive and start tuning as when i rebuilt the map i purposely built it very rich. Felt toey, responsive and idled smoother with the now coil.

                      Sooo keen. Heaps pumped. get some good tuning done and for for a drive into town and get a chook for dinner.


                      I realised.



                      And you know what makes it worse?
                      Oh i think. Im 25 now right? My insurance will be cheaper. FKN WRONG
                      Late last year they moved the age increment for insurance, it's now 30years old. I have been chaseing this bloody age bracket since it used to be 21. I hit 20 and it moved to 25. I hit 24 and they move it to 30. these insurance company's, the dudes who make this shit up.
                      I would not piss on these F&#37;&#$ if they were on fire.
                      Actually, IN FACT i probably will piss on them so i can commit HATE **** on their smoldering corpses, FILM IT and send the video to their FAMILY.
                      THEN, While im delivering the tape, id cut the head off their dog and put it on a pike on their FRONT LAWN then i set their house on fire and burn off in my UNREGISTERED CAR making sure to hit the fire hydrant on my way so they cannot put their burning FURNITURE OUT.

                      surely im not the only one who would rather **** bambi then continue to be plouged by the motors, registration and insurance system in NSW.
                      My "show" (wan|<) car:


                      • #12
                        New Video:
                        My "show" (wan|<) car:


                        • #13
                          Finished the Tacho signal output mod. It worked. So i put a current limiting resister in series with the relay coil so it wouldn't load so much. Took it from 80ohm to 180ohm. Still works. 2 thumbs up! Reassembled the MSecu. so it can go back in with the intent that it will stay there for a while. how good is that.
                          imgzzzzzzzzzzzzz. Lol messy work area.

                          on the other side here is the output circuit for the Broadband manifold. Also shows the Spark signal output mod and you can see the PWM transistor for the fast idel up the back there as well.

                          It took me hours researching to find an alternative transistor with the right characteristics to replace that British available one listed in the mod. Sucked. Eventually went with the mje340. That big thing is the relay coil out of the inside of a standard automotive relay. it simulates the primary winding of a tfi coil by providing the flyback effect at the end of the ign pulse. the flyback is fed to the in-dash tacho. that's why the transistor has to be a certain type, using a regular one with your standard 30v junctions and you risk the flyback voltage destroying it. tThe MJE340 cost $2.50, a normal 500ma transistor is only 20cents.
                          Because those relay coils are only 80ohm i didnt want to draw another 163mA through the ms for no real reason. Im glad it worked still once i bumped the resistance up too 180ohm. the risk was the coil wouldn't develop a strong enough magnetic field to generate the flyback with the smaller current. But it still worked. the bonus affect this had too is reducing the possible magnetic interference. I was hesitant mounting it to the MS and was going to put it externally. but well see how this works. If i get interference ill have to move the coil.

                          Tidying up the messy loomzorz

                          and the electric waterpump controller with the isolation switch mod. It disabels the radiator fan, water pump and fuel pump. So the car wont start while the cooling system is disabled and so the battery's don't flatten while im testing things with the ign on. It's gated so it cant be bumped on, there's also a light in the dash that comes on to indicate when the switch is in the isolate position and ign is on.

                          Last edited by Crazy2287; 20-01-2012, 10:48 PM.
                          My "show" (wan|<) car:


                          • #14
                            Love the paint job. And the car sounds wonderful.
                            Get the soy sauce, cause I'm burning some rice.


                            • #15
                              Thank you Shadow. I'll get some better vid up, I'll try and get some of it running on the dyno.

                              Dropped it off at the dynotuner today. The injectors are probably going to limit power to below 180HP, that's assuming it would actually make 180hp. But will see how it goes at the dyno. Keen to see how it goes, might finally break 130rwkw in the 24yo old family sedan. ;D
                              My "show" (wan|<) car: