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Soarer 2jz JZZ31

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  • Soarer 2jz JZZ31

    Bought the home around August 2017.
    1996 (series 2) 2jzge auto with factory A02B LSD
    Black exterior with series 3 front bumper, glass high beam, rear wiper, stock 15" basket weave alloys
    Black POV pack back interior with fabric seats, aftermarket double din touch screen head unit

    Plan for the next year is a daily with a few bits beefed up for track days etc

    Build summary:

    Cool bits
    -supra 3 core alloy rad Ebay spec $190
    -brackets to adapt to soarer mounts
    -HEL braided brake lines $180
    -track day wheels $200
    -extinguisher $25
    -super pro poly rack bushings $50

    Boring bits
    -Boot and bonnet struts-$55 (installed)
    -rear new flex blade wiper-$40 (installed)
    ​​​​​-non airbag clock spring/stalk assembly of ebay-$80 (installed)
    -fix numerous blown globes etc -free
    -coin holder ash tray replacement-$40
    -fix dodgy radio wiring: wiring was actually a clean installz removed gps unit that was left from previous radio
    -tyres 5xDunlop sport tyres on stock alloys+​alignment $650
    -new battery $200
    -switch blanks $20
    -coin holder ashtray replacement $30
    -front and rear wipers-$68
    ​-pads and rotors $514
    -horn wire repair-$0
    -windscreen- $345
    -rwc $298
    -headlight polish $10
    -new fuel filter $0
    -spark plugs $40
    -fixed door (finally)

    Purchased/to install
    -A340 shift kit (springs etc)-$94
    -A340 solenoid set-$70
    Need to install
    ​​-spark plugs-$60-80
    ​​​​​- install Ford F150 trans-coolant heat exchanger

    Nice to haves
    -1jz hydraulic fan pump and hydro fan or convert to Ford Falcon/Territory big single thermo fan
    - possible remote oil filter to be done later
    - finding interior water leak probably just rotten carpet, hasn't been damp when I have checked it​​​​​​
    - clear coat to be done later

    R154 manual swap
    Coil overs
    Comes up nice after a clean Comes up nice after a clean Interior isn't bad either
    Last edited by Barry719; 09-05-2018, 02:59 AM.

  • #2
    Made some progress in the last few weeks:

    Installed the boot and bonnet struts
    Took a 12mm spanner and about 30min for the boot without help back.
    -Take out fabric divider
    -prop up boot lid with plank
    -remove boot mounted 12mm nut
    -pop off body mounted clip
    -reverse with new strut for install
    can be done faster without dropping the retaining clip behind the fuel tank

    Bought and installed the missing half of the clock spring (non airbag)
    -pop off steering wheel horn cover
    -disconnect horn/cruise/hands free plug (mine was already chopped)
    -undo 19mm nut
    -remove steering wheel
    -remove front two and bottom 2 Phillips column cover screws
    -pop off cover (now help together by clips on the side)
    -my clock-spring had the front section missing, so i separated the front section from the replacement (held with clips and simply popped it on the new one.
    -horn can be tested by grounding out the plug with some wire
    takes about 30min
    The clock spring on the Z30 series Soarer/SC300/SC400 is a spring contact type, where the prongs slide on circular tracks to make a connection, vs the spiral ribbon cable of later models
    This meant i was simply able to separate the clock-spring halves instead of replacing the whole assembly.

    Other stuff:
    -Updated the software on the radio that came with the car.
    -Adjusted the accelerator cable to take up slack- need 2 10mm spanners
    -Confirmed that the car has a factory LSD still, sadly just a 1 way torsen but still better than open


    • #3
      Got time to go through the rest of the car and found a few things
      -Car has a Mitsuba "Arena Horn" set (MBW-2E13R) installed at one stage but is missing the MBH-2E13 and MBH-2E14 horns themselves
      -headlight loom has been chopped up, some plugs missing and LED halo rings installed in the stock headlights, but not wired either
      -head-unit is missing Bluetooth mic, can see some bad wiring coming out behind the panel in addition to a GPS antenna eve though the unit is not nav-compatible
      -missing rear number plate lights


      • #4
        Fixing horn plug on steering wheel
        As mentioned before, the horn plug was chopped off the pad assembly
        First started by removing the end that is attached to the pad, just 2 black Phillips head screws and then the 2 gold Philips head screws that attach and insulate the wire piece from the pad frame.
        I also have one broken black post that I hopefully have a spare of on my parts car
        Then the plug pin can be removed by the little panel on the black of the plug (just pops out) this allows easy access to depress the plastic hook, allowing the pin to be pulled out.
        Ideally i want a new section of wire with new plug pin and new pad pin (riveted to pad connector) but might have to settle for soldering the existing ones.
        Or could install the cruise/hands free wiring from the other steering wheel


        • #5


          • #6
            received_10155213654382014.jpeg Small update:
            Took the car to Robert at RM Performance and put it on the dyno out of curiosity. 103kw ATW which is more than one was expecting and 107kw with the filter removed and airbox open, which suggests to me that the airbox intake on these soarers is pretty restrictive as it's a small slot below the headlight.

            Also got new tyres, alignment and battery (was using an old one that was way too small)
            Decided on retaining the 15s for now and getting 215/65R25 tyres as they were probably the best size for the car in terms of tyre choice. Tyres are just going to be daily tyres and will be getting a seperate set of something for track days.
            As a plus, the balloon 65 profile makes it super comfortable despite worn suspension and bushes.

            After the new battery, a current leak has sprung up somewhere, guessing the immobiliser system, so that's next to be removed as it was extremely annoying anyway.
            Moved house and went on a holiday to NZ, so time and budget wise it has been a tight few months,but will get back into it soon once my savings recover.
            Last edited by Barry719; 23-01-2018, 06:02 PM.


            • #7
              Installed new brakes this week.
              Bought EBC slotted and ventilated discs and just EBC GP Max pads for now.
              Have booked in UTAC at Winton for May and will swap out the pads for more performance orientated pads before then.
              When installing the pads, the lines were pretty deteriorated so have bought some braided lines to replace them with.
              Other than that it is just general tidying up of wiring etc before the RWC next week


              • #8
                Fair bit has happened in the last few weeks
                -Installed HEL brake lines and flushed/bled the brakes and old fluid
                -Repaired the horn wiring
                -Repaired light wiring
                -Replaced missing seat bolts
                -Replaced steering rack boot
                -Cleaned headlights (tooth-paste and varying disk washing scrubbers) will have to redo with proper polish and disassemble lights
                -Got a RWC!!
                Getting it registered this Wednesday, then maintenance and prep for UTAC starts


                • #9
                  Good stuff man, these are a really good way to cheaply get into a 2J
                  Daily: '00 Daihatsu Cuore "Kelly" - Build Thread -
                  Project / Weekender: '05 Subaru Liberty 3.0R-B Wagon - Build Thread -
                  Motorcycle: '14 Triumph Street Triple 660 - Build Thread -


                  • #10
                    Thanks! They're pretty good value for money when considering what the equivalent supra costs. And sharing the same platform will come in handy such as suspension wise etc (albeit longer wheel base and more weight)


                    • #11
                      Got the soarer registered last week. In driving it a bit more noticed a few issues.

                      ​​​​​​Suspension, subframe and steering rack bushes need replacing.

                      ​​​​Also have an issue with the ignition. Disconnected all the plugs and cleaned them out with break cleaner.
                      That's when I came across that the dist cap had about 1mm thick of corrosion on the terminals and the rotor was worn back to plastic. Installed new ones and heaps better bit still has a slight miss. Will replace the coil and plugs next, and check continuity of the plug wires.

                      Next gave it a service, new engine oil, oil filter and diff fluid.
                      Diff fluid was in good shape and just a normal coating of minimal fine metal paste on the magnet which I was happy to see. However a steel washer had been used to seal it but threads are good.
                      Engine sump plug however was sealed with some kind of diy plastic washer and threads were slightly stretched but not stripped.

                      However went to install the shift kit, solenoids and new filter and the solenoids/filter are the incorrect parts . So will install the shift kit for now and re-order the correct ones. Atleast there were no metal particles on the auto trans magnets and now the fluid is freshened up instead of black.

                      Other small issues are that the outer handle has come loose, passenger mirror can't be adjusted and rear parcel shelf needs foam under it as it keeps rattling.
                      Slowly getting there though.


                      • #12
                        Finished the service, skipped installing the shift kit due to time constraints.
                        Even so, shifts are smoother with the new auto fluid which is a plus.
                        Found the correct filter and solenoids for $50 USD
                        Also did some research. The 2JZ-GE A340E seems to be weaker than the 1uz/2Jz-GTE soarer auto. Has less clutch packs and also lacks a converter lock up and associated solenoid from the look of it which is a little disappointing. However a manual conversion will fix that.

                        Also trying to track down an odd power surge issue.
                        The 2jzge is sluggish below 4000rpm then has a huge power surge up until reline.
                        Still have to replace the plugs and coil. But fuel filter, fuel pump and even fuel pump ecu (soarers run a fuel pump ecu that lowers the voltage to the pump under light load) could be the culprits too if the issue still persists.

                        Also removed a few goodies from the soarer V8 limited parts car such as factory sub, amp and electric dim rear view mirror and will wire them into the soarer over the next few weeks.

                        Also noticed that the wheel lug nuts were incorrect, so swapped the correct set over from the limited too.


                        • #13
                          Big update:
                          Been doing a heap of work to get ready for SUCC's UTAC event at Winton on the 12th of May

                          Brake master failed

                          ​​​​​Went parts hunting, got boring bits like boot liners etc, concave side mirror, mirror wiring plug etc and....some 15" BBS RG100's
                          Paid $100 for the lot without caps and with shitty tyres. They cleaned up nice too!

                          And got a brake master off a 1JZ
                          It was the wrong housing (as mine is non abs) but the internal plunger etc was the same. Swapped then over, but still had a bit of air in the lines, however felt better than before.

                          Plus bought a set of 350Z wheels and tyres for UTAC
                          And a heap of maintenance stuff such as:
                          -3 row alloy rad with some brackets made up to adapt the MKIV supra mounting points to the Soarer's
                          ​​​​-Re-bled brakes by running lines from 4 calipers back to the master and cycling the air out. Only wasted used about 500ml of fluid in the lines by doing this, however once the lines filled back to the master, i was able to continuously cycle the brakes without a helper and get all the air out. Brakes feel amazing now!
                          -Fixed my door latch, removed the old one, welded up the door lock rod and put it all back in
                          -new fuel filter
                          -new super pro poly rack bushings
                          -new ignition coil plug
                          -polished headlights with an orbital polisher (can now actually see!)
                          ​​​-flushed ps fluid

                          Car seems to run a heap happier with this done, may hace been the old fuel filter combined wiring causing some of the issues.

                          Still have to install spark plugs, do the auto filter, solenoids and shift kit and inspect the ecu for bad caps, and oxygen sensors and find the slack in the driveshaft/diff.

                          Plus install extinguisher and make version 2 of the rad mount.

                          Hub centric rings for the 350z wheels arrived
                          And so did my helmet, a modular one which cost about $80 and is AS/NZS 1698-2006 compliant.

                          Will grab more pics soon!
                          Last edited by Barry719; 09-05-2018, 03:24 AM.


                          • #14
                            Racing on the weekend in SUCC's UTAC event at Winton and it went great!
                            Doubled entered it with a mate. I was in class D and he was in E. We did all of the sessions except 1 main session each (out of 4) and both missed 1 passenger session each (out of two).
                            Car didn't miss a beat apart from the steering rack being a tad loose on the long left hand sweeper on turn 5 causing a bit of steering shudder which I will address soon.
                            Plus drove it there and back from Melbourne which is about 450km.

                            Really enjoyed my first track day, came off the track few times and didn't pick great lines etc but still have a heap of fun.
                            I managed to get a 2:01:960 and the mate got a 1:56 which was a heap quicker than I imagined. Auto wasn't too bad either apart from not downshifting out of corners

                            Before the race I revised the mounts again from the previous posts and a mate tigged them up.

                            Also made a simple extinguisher mount out of flat bar bent at 45deg in the middle, but this will be revised, it worked but made using the seat a little awkward.

                            Overall really happy with the car.

                            Will have to grab a pic of the car with the 350Z wheels on but have lent them to a mate while he gets tyres on his new wheels on his turbo 350Z


                            • #15
                              Some more pictures
                              350Z touring wheels running Nitto Invo 225/45R18 front and some China tyres 245/45R18 rear. Transformed the handling and breaking of the car, and because of my old tyres being oversized in outer diameter, the alignment was pretty close too.

                              Used aluminium hub rings to adapt the 60.1mm Soarer hub to the 66.1mm Nissan hub.
                              Fills out the guards better and offers heaps of room for a future brake upgrade. The heavy coupe needs help in that department!