Martin's Project Diesel Tune

[MartinObviously]

I thought perhaps it was time to start a new thread afresh.

So, 6 months ago I bought a car for 150 quid. I saved it from the bangers. It's a Naturally Aspirated 1527cc diesel Peugeot 106.

2vm7aq9.jpg

So that was basically how it looked when I bought it. Dare I say that I was excited knowing how good this shell was. It's what's on the inside that counts. And with only 110,000km since new it's not really done much since 1996.

the quick turnaround was removing the bump strips and smoothing out some of the dents. quick paint of some steel wheels. Chuck it in for an MOT (which it passed absolutely no problem).

So here is how it stands at the moment. It's still standard.

2i0yhc6.jpg

So, PROJECT DIESEL COMMENCE!


Specification:

Make: Peugeot
Model: 106 XND (MK2)
Year: 1996

Power: 40KW/54hp at 5200rpm
Top Speed: 160km/h or 99mph
0-100kmh: 15.4 seconds

Brakes: Terrible on the front and 180mm drums on the rear. No ABS
Handbrake: Excellent

Gearbox: 5 speed manual with extra difficult 5th gear engagement.

Fuel: Legal white diesel after giving the fuel tank a good flush.
Fuel Pump: Lucas/CAV DPC Rotary Injection Pump (Type 070). Fully mechanical.
Injectors: Standard with break pressure of 135 BAR. Threaded type.

Engine type: Naturally Aspirated High Speed Diesel
Indirect Injection (the best)

Suspension: Maccy-P struts on the front with some form of funky ARB setup
Rear trailing arm, fully independent 17.9mm torsion bars with 19mm ARB.


PROJECT GOALS:

Make car as fast as possible using as many "standard" or home made parts as possible. This will probably be good in terms of percentage because it's never going to be a "fast" car.

I need a base line to work from, so I'm getting a power run on a dyno this week to see what the craic is!


- Martin

[Kaktus]

Hi Martin,

This sounds like a very interesting project, I for one will be keeping an eye out for updates!

Makes me a bit wistful thinking about the '96 106 Rallye I had many moons ago....

[MartinObviously]

Hi Martin,

This sounds like a very interesting project, I for one will be keeping an eye out for updates!

Makes me a bit wistful thinking about the '96 106 Rallye I had many moons ago....

I've got a 1995 1.3 S1 Rallye in red (as featured in my Avatar ) but it's a project in itself. it's still mostly a shell. not a spot of rust on it now though. Started putting the interior in.

So for the diesel I'm concerned about the timing belt, it looks okay but the only documentation I can find says 2005. That would put the belt at 13 years old so I'm going to change that tomorrow.

[TheCaptain]

Great find man! Those 1.5 XUD engines are though as nails, usually they get driven to high mileage on a budget and then scrapped...

[MartinObviously]

Great find man! Those 1.5 XUD engines are though as nails, usually they get driven to high mileage on a budget and then scrapped...

TUD I think most of the engines outlive the cars. they're mostly in AX's, 106's and Saxos so the bodyshells usually rot away first.

Much better (Cooling system, HeAdGaSkEt etc) than XUD engines and a lot smaller. You can double the power of a TUD and not even worry about the internals, as long as it's kept cool. If you're really careful you can get to 100hp/litre with it.

No need to worry about engine damage or high power since I'm not fitting a turbo yet.

[MartinObviously]

PROJECT DIESEL TUNE

Managed to get on a dyno today. Made 69hp at 5500rpm, power still hadn't peaked so we abandoned the run. really need it to rev to 6500 but I don't know the physical limits of this engine.

Here is a video.

And a picture

ifd9js.jpg

[TheCaptain]

Diesels are all about low end torque. I'd focus on that rather then raising the rev limiter

[MartinObviously]

Diesels are all about low end torque. I'd focus on that rather then raising the rev limiter

This isn't a Di though, it's indirect injection. it'll never make power low down because of the swirl chamber design. it's not efficient enough

Fundamentally you need revs and torque to make horsepower. I can move the torque band a little bit down but I don't think it'll affect it much. The adjustments are very small.

I did a new test, managed a terminal speed run. So I've worked it out out to 51hp at the wheels.

[Richie_B]

Good luck with the project. My first car was a Saxo so I know how rare it is to find a clean one of these now considering they were all rusty 10 years ago lol

[MartinObviously]

Good luck with the project. My first car was a Saxo so I know how rare it is to find a clean one of these now considering they were all rusty 10 years ago lol

Thanks!

I'm trying to get a tachometer rigged up today, it's the one with the massive clock instead of a tacho. It's got a flywheel sensor so I'm hoping there's a signal wire at the dashboard end behind the clocks. I found an old tacho lying about but I've no idea what it came out. I'm assuming it's from a 4 cylinder so the signal should be the same.

[Robert]

The body looks really nice.
I hope I dont come off on the wrong foot but I think this car would do well with a direct injection head or swapping an angrier engine in. Like a newer TDI from a VW. they are really cheap its just a lot of fab work.

I have had great luck porting older cars and redefining the intake track. The reason I say redefine is I am talking about hours of grinding sanding and welding aluminum manifolds to get the right shape. Spares are cheap and if you get a spare head, it could be as easy as hogging all that stuff out ordering a set of rods and pistons and waiting for any excuse to tear it apart.
Run your assembly down to the balancer. get it back pop all that stuff in and maybe you can safely hit 120 H.P. NA or add a smaller turbo from ebay for 100 of your quid or less and hit 240.

It wouldnt be stupid fast but it would be for what the car is. It would sure melt tires and snap half shafts.







My friend has a 206cc its fun.

[MartinObviously]

Thanks, the body is still pretty dented but structurally it's good hehehe!

I've got loads of spares for these, manifolds, 2 cylinder heads, injectors, fuel pumps etc. It's just finding the time to fabricate them all.

There's a small chance of me getting it to 120hp, 90-100 is probably a more achievable target for me

A turbo charger on this engine, I've done this before. They respond really well to turbocharging. with no intercooling it'll go to 135hp. I'll probably end up turbocharging it to be honest, 150hp would keep it reliable. it's only an 8 valve.

[Robert]

I have had a ton of luck with 2 valve per cylinder as far as making them go faster. It's not rocket science to get bigger valves in compared to upping a 4 or 5 and usually the intake valve isnt what it could be. Honestly id start with the head and just pour your soul into it. Do a nice turbo head. What I mean by that is throw all the NA tuning tricks out and go for a nice smooth gasket matched angle improved mirror. The reason I say mirror finish is from experience. ( Long story short: I leaned redidue from driving 100 miles with a bad head gasket off with a rag.)
Plus the turbo ports... ( Clarification smooth and even. N/A can have some adverse effects.) Are going to be much much better than stock. I have photos somewhere. Do that head up real prestine. Dinner plate clean valved. Great valve job will get you a lot of flow. Great valve job is a full blended job. Have an experienced machinist who does race cars do it. Valve jobs are cheap too. Go with some good double springs and run whatever cam you can get cheap even if its just an improved stock unit out of a newer car. That my friend will make you smile because every time you chane another component that beautiful head will keep returning it to you. The other reason is you can use that manifold and spare head and make a nice header turbo or NA. A little math and you could make a great unit. Then you can fab up an intake on the same head or if you want to switch over to the monster head you can fabricate off the old unit.

I might be writing a lot here but I have fond memories of my 12 valve AAH-AFC motor. That might make no sense to a non VW guy but the motor was a turd out of the box 2.7L gas and 107 h.p. It was unloved.
I got 370 NA ponies out of that motor with stock internals and valves. I just used the best of what was made for that motor and fabbed everything else. My limit was always the computer, that thing did well over half a million miles 300,000 if them were me and it was still running very strong when I went over the scales.

I dunno if you can make heads of what I am saying but it would be a hell of a sleeper if you did it right. No one suspects that motor to pull anything over 90 ponies.


btw 3500-4000 aint right. Check your pump and injection. There might be a big bit of spooge in one of your injectors.

[MartinObviously]

I have had a ton of luck with 2 valve per cylinder as far as making them go faster. It's not rocket science to get bigger valves in compared to upping a 4 or 5 and usually the intake valve isnt what it could be. Honestly id start with the head and just pour your soul into it. Do a nice turbo head. What I mean by that is throw all the NA tuning tricks out and go for a nice smooth gasket matched angle improved mirror. The reason I say mirror finish is from experience. ( Long story short: I leaned redidue from driving 100 miles with a bad head gasket off with a rag.)
Plus the turbo ports... ( Clarification smooth and even. N/A can have some adverse effects.) Are going to be much much better than stock. I have photos somewhere. Do that head up real prestine. Dinner plate clean valved. Great valve job will get you a lot of flow. Great valve job is a full blended job. Have an experienced machinist who does race cars do it. Valve jobs are cheap too. Go with some good double springs and run whatever cam you can get cheap even if its just an improved stock unit out of a newer car. That my friend will make you smile because every time you chane another component that beautiful head will keep returning it to you. The other reason is you can use that manifold and spare head and make a nice header turbo or NA. A little math and you could make a great unit. Then you can fab up an intake on the same head or if you want to switch over to the monster head you can fabricate off the old unit.

I might be writing a lot here but I have fond memories of my 12 valve AAH-AFC motor. That might make no sense to a non VW guy but the motor was a turd out of the box 2.7L gas and 107 h.p. It was unloved.
I got 370 NA ponies out of that motor with stock internals and valves. I just used the best of what was made for that motor and fabbed everything else. My limit was always the computer, that thing did well over half a million miles 300,000 if them were me and it was still running very strong when I went over the scales.

I dunno if you can make heads of what I am saying but it would be a hell of a sleeper if you did it right. No one suspects that motor to pull anything over 90 ponies.


btw 3500-4000 aint right. Check your pump and injection. There might be a big bit of spooge in one of your injectors.

Not at all, advice is always appreciated!

The variation between 3500 and 4000 I think is resonance in the exhaust, it makes a horrible raspy noise at that rpm range. If it is the pump, my only option is to rebuild the pump as there's no adjustment mid range, everything in a mechanical pump progresses steadily based on load and rpm.

I know just the guy who can do the head work for me - he's built some really good engines over the years.

I'll get pictures of the head today and post them up so you can see, the valves are a good size too. I've got all the specifications for the valves seats etc as I have a manufacturer "overhaul, rebuild and repair" manual for this engine. https://www.dropbox.com/s/cwre15jmiqq4sob/TUD5.pdf?dl=0

There's only one camshaft available for this engine unfortunately, so I'll have to measure the profile the standard camshaft and decide from there what I want to do. I could have a camshaft made for it fairly easily as long as I get the specification correct.

[Robert]

I bet you could do all the work. I have had a lot of luck with sanding drums for dremel units. It takes longer than a bur and electric die grinder but its much easier not to make a mistake. I can tell you all I know but there are some good builders online. Whatever that deviation is I would give it come concern. If its exhaust no biggie but if its a lean condition.. Yikes. Did you get a measure of your AFR during pulls??