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Dala's Leaf buildthread (2015 Nissan Leaf)

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  • Originally posted by Kullman View Post
    Hey Dala

    Could you build a similar controller for the A/C dials of the Honda Accord 2.2 ICTDI?
    I could, but sadly i have probably 30x sideprojects ongoing. It would have to be funded in some way for me to be able to allocate time to the R&D. And I think from a philosophical standpoint I'd rather put time on EVs compared to ICE. Sorry!

    Speaking of R&D, I decided to launch a Patreon site last week. I'll be ramping up video productions! Already got the first tech-deep-dive video up on the site. The video will be released to the public in a few weeks, but if anyone feel like supporting my reverse engineering attempts I wont stop them

    https://www.patreon.com/dala

    The topic for the first video is a deep dive in how Nissan does the Battery ID+Pairing on the Leaf

    Comment


    • I really don't drive an Accord (I actually drive a Honda CR-Z), so this problem doesn't affect me, but i think it could be a good business for you, cause there are a lot more Accords than Leafs, and all the Accord diesel had that issue, as far as i know.

      I have seen posts about that issue several times in ClubHondaSpirit (spanish Honda specific forum), and I suppose other Accord owners around the world should have the same problem.
      Last edited by Kullman; 27-06-2020, 12:32 AM.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Kullman View Post
        I really don't drive an Accord (I actually drive a Honda CR-Z), so this problem doesn't affect me, but i think it could be a good business for you, cause there are a lot more Accords than Leafs, and all the Accord diesel had that issue, as far as i know.

        I have seen posts about that issue several times in ClubHondaSpirit (spanish Honda specific forum), and I suppose other Accord owners around the world should have the same problem.
        Yup, but I don't want to touch an ICE, so not gonna happen. But someone feel free to copy my findings later on and apply them to any vehicle

        Oh, the first video is now available to the public!

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Dala View Post
          Oh, the first video is now available to the public!
          I got lost on the 5th minute

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Kullman View Post

            I got lost on the 5th minute
            I'll take that as a compliment The real goal with the tech-deep-dive videos is to educate already CAN-versed with true inner workings of the software that is powering modern cars. This is the direction that the automotive industry has been on for a looong time, but with EVs you need to start to understand it to be able to modify the behaviour of your car. Or just pay someone else to do the heavy lifting

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            • It isn't a interesting topic for me, but it's good to know than the orange cables are dangerous, and than i need to use properly isolated gloves to manipulate them.

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              • No idea why i put that slash in the units. I do understand the difference. Yes I'd love the CCS upgrade (when Emile starts fitting them) in the Muxsan'd leaf i have but tbh it will be a lot of money for something i use once in a very blue moon. I feel the limiting factor with some of this is how good the chargers are, the Ecotricity ones seem slower than polar ones in the UK but then they are alot older.

                I'd like two things maybe 3 things

                1. to unlock the V2G on my gen 1 leaf
                2. have the CCS fitted for 75kW speeds
                3. have a 22kW ac charger fitted for a good redundancy when the DC charger on a motorway unit is broken
                4. replace the 22kWh nominal 75% soh battery so (16.5kWh) with a 40 kWh or 62 kWh

                What i have been looking at recently is the diyV4bms by Stuart Pittaway on github. I have some calb lifepo4 which are going into my camper van. anyway the really good thing with the Github repo is that he published all the files to drop straight onto jlcpcb for fully populated pick&place. This along with a bidirectional SDM120CT Modbus energy meter for the house. hopefully i can get my camper van leisure battery working to store some of my excess solar when i am not camping. i.e. diy powerwall. I tried going with the Pzem004 devices at first but the newer ones cant be hacked to work bidirectionally. I just needed something to trigger off went the house is exporting.

                Anyway this is all completely off topic. sorry for the thread hijack. Hopefully its stuff you weren't aware of and helps you.

                Comment


                • So here's a fun sideproject! With the help of some friends, we created a working prototype 'nag-deleter' for my friends LEAF, a 2014 24kWH AZE0


                  Those of you that have a higher spec LEAF knows how annoying it is to press OK every time you want to use the radio/nav system after starting the vehicle. Due to a recent discovery by one of my Patrons (kudos to Jonas Andersson!), my interest in the quite undocumented AV-CAN grew. Since my own car is a base model LEAF, and I already installed an Android headunit, I couldn't experiment directly with this. Thankfully one of my friends own a LEAF that has the higher spec navigation system, and we could experiment on it.

                  To bypass the nagscreen is quite easy. Just send some messages onto the AV-CAN (OBD2 pin 11 = H, pin 3 = L) roughly 9 seconds after the car is started. You can get it to go straight to FM, Nav or Status.

                  To get it to Status, send these 3x messages 100ms between each:

                  0x681 0x04 30 40 0d b1 ff ff ff

                  0x681 0x04 40 40 0d b1 ff ff ff

                  0x681 0x04 50 40 0d 31 ff ff ff

                  To get it to FM, send these 3x messages 100ms between each :

                  0x681 0x04 20 40 0d a3 ff ff ff

                  0x681 0x04 30 40 0d a3 ff ff ff

                  0x681 0x04 40 40 0d 23 ff ff ff

                  We then built a ESP32 based box with a MCP2551-IP CAN transceiver tacked onto it. We coded up a simple program that detects when CAN messages start to arrive, waits for X amount of seconds, and fires the desired selection onto the bus. The device is powered via OBD2 pin8, which is a switched 12V supply, so the device doesn't consume power when the car is off.

                  The finished product, tucked behind the OBD2 port


                  Here you can see it in action

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                  • I did a quick summary on my car as an intro to my channel, it's a bit rough but I'm slowly getting the hand of video editing

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                    • So I recently purchased a row house, that came with a garage and a small storage unit. I started to clean up and paint the garage, along with getting the electrical system up to spec for EV charging. I'm gathering some footage on this, and will make a video on the renovation. But here's a quick before shot on the storage unit, just moved in the printer to it since I needed to ramp up production on 3d-printed parts.



                      I already replaced the 60W bulb with a 10W LED to make it a bit brighter. I will remove the improvised bench, and add some insulation to the walls. Then rebuild the bench area. So much FUN! I am loving not living in a multistorey building anymore!

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                      • Here's a quick video showing where I mount the CAN-bridges when I do battery upgrades on the Nissan Leaf, and also this video contains a quick guide on how to update the software running on these CAN-bridges. The info here is really useful if you are planning to install a DIY CAN-bridge / MITM device on a Leaf!

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                        • I tweaked my energy subscription slightly.
                          I used to have a wind-power subscription, which cost 4,90 cent/kWh (+6cent transfer fee). That totals up to 10.9c/kWh. With this subscription, it would cost 4.24€ to fill up the car from 0-100% (40kWh).

                          I scoped the consumption on the new place, it was nice to see data from the few days I've lived here already. This is what it looks like:


                          The new agreement I signed is called "climate-electricity", and was 100% renewable energy. Renewable by their definition was solar,wind and nuclear. This I can agree with! I signed up for a lower fee during the night, that way I get 3.60 cent/kWh at night, and 4,24cent/kWh during the day (plus 6c transfer).

                          Since I normally only charge during the night, it would then cost 3.84€ to fill up the car from 0-100%. This is a cost reduction of 10%! I have a hot water heater that runs during the night, so the savings will be even greater over time. Feels good being able to help the power grid and run entirely of renewable!

                          Now if only I could get some solar panel action going here....

                          Comment


                          • How is nuclear renewable?

                            It uses mineral fuel, and it generates highly toxic waste which remains radioactive for more than a thousand years.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Kullman View Post
                              How is nuclear renewable?

                              It uses mineral fuel, and it generates highly toxic waste which remains radioactive for more than a thousand years.
                              Glad you asked! It was a bit wrongly worded from my side, but it is actually one of the best from a climate/health perspective. Since the world is on a transition period to renewable energy, there is still the need for some baseload until we can get true 100% renewable sources like solar/wind/hydro. In the meantime for baseload, you want something that is stable and doesn't go up/down due to demand. So your options for baseload is then coal/gas/oil/nuclear. Since we want to cause the least amount of pollution, nuclear is the clear winner. Take a look at this chart:


                              As the amount of renewables increases in the grid, we can remove the older types of baseload. Then the renewables become the baseload, and we can deprecate the dirty fuels. Since we don't have time to faff around and put more CO2/NOx/SOx/HCs etc. into the atmosphere, we must STOP the coal/gas/oil today. You can quickly see how nuclear is the only sane alternative, and hopefully we will only need to use it for a few more decades. Finland has already set up the deadlines for when the nuclear powerplants will be dismantled. If you are worried about the nuclear waste, new processes to extract more energy from the already "spent" rods is in the works, and we can simply pop in the older rods into newer style plants to get the radioactivity out of them quicker. Gross oversimplification, but I think you get the point.

                              Isn't it amazing that we have vehicles that produce less amount of CO2 the longer we use them? As energy gets cleaner, the CO2/kWh gets lower, right now it is sitting at 48 gCO2/kWh on the electricity produced in Finland. Who knows how low this number will be in 5-10years!

                              Comment


                              • Nah... the nuclear energy doesn't kill too many people, that's true.

                                It just poisons them, and makes them live a miserable long life.

                                People are still getting poisoned in Ucraine because of the infamous "accident" of Chernobyl.

                                And as radiation damages aren't inmediate, you can live several years with apparently perfect health before developing a viscious cancer, and politicians wouldn't see any correlation with the fact that you lived near a nuclear power plant...

                                But hey, nothing happens until it happens...

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