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Hoodedreeper's K11 Micra v3

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  • #16
    When I collected the engine I also bought a Garrett T2 Turbo and DIY manifold. I giggled like a little child and the thought of making choo choo noises from my rusty shitbox. Thats when I dug deeper into the conversion....






    These engines aren't the most renown for being strong when boost is applied. Some engines have lasted years some within a week. The ringlands are the first to go and with the uncertainty of how long they'd last I'd need to factor in a bottom end rebuild.






    The next largest piece of the puzzle was engine management. I was relying on using a Nistune board, but they're not available for the coilpack ECU. Piggyback units like the Det3 and E-Manage Blue are perfectly fine but they dont come about very often, then its finding a mapper local who can do it. The other option was to go full standalone i.e Omex,Megasquirt,Emerald, Link etc which would require a full rewire.

    Although this option isnt an inconvience cost was a big factor. Can I justify spending £600-£1000 on management plus the cost of everything else? I said all along I wasn't going to boost it because I have the R34 for power/speed. I guess caving into peer pressure and curiousity got the best of me.




    I decided not to go down this route because of the costs to make it reliable. Yes you can do it on the cheap, but finding the 1.4 engines is becoming more difficult and I dont really wanna be replacing the engine every month.




    The turbo and Manifold sold today (17/10/20)

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    • #17
      Spent a couple of days cleaning the block up and painting. The engine was pretty clean to begin with so luckily I managed to skip the degreasing stage. I used various wire brush drill attachments to clean it up and plenty of brake cleaner to get rid of the dust. With everything being aluminium it cleaned up really nicely.






      The bottom end and sump was painted with Smooth Black Hammerite aerosol, while the head had the same treatment but with Smooth Silver. I've used Hammerite for years and never had it dry this glossy, how long that stays like that is anyone's guess.














      I've replaced all of the sensors, waterpump and thermostat while everything was stripped. Not necessary by any means, but I know its all fresh and new









      I've done my best to remove everything I can and paint it. Again, all of the silver is the same Hammerite spray but the black is Holts Simoniz Tough Black aerosol. Its covered just as good as the Hammerite and it was quite abit cheaper (another bonus of selling it at work)
















      I've also replaced most of the original nuts/bolts with Stainless allen cap versions. I've been recommended to use Nord Lock washers instead of normal flat ones. Never heard of them but it came from a close friend who's a perfectionist when it comes to this sorta thing so I trust his judgement.




      I need to remove the alternator (only a couple of month old), PAS pump/Alternator bracket and Crankshaft Pulley from the 1.0L engine and swap it over before this gets fitted. I'll also paint any other bracket on the car and replace the hardward with stainless as and when I get to that stage.

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      • #18
        Spent yesterday (Wednesday 28th) taking the car apart ready to remove the engine. I managed to do everything except remove the drive shafts in an afternoon. A friend is coming over on Sunday with an engine hoist to help finish the removal.









        With the unpredictable british weather and limited days off I had to make do with the best of what I had, but when it comes to paint work that can become abit tricky. All I had was a dusty and cold garage to spray in, with the help of a heat gun I managed to pull off a reasonable finish.









        We decided on BMW Atlantis Blue









        Unfortunately I didn't have the time to properly fit it to the engine but couldn't resist a quick photo










        Depending on the time and available daylight, I'm hoping to get the remaining brackets etc removed from the engine bay once the engine has been removed and have the whole bay degreased and rinsed. This will be the decider whether the engine bay gets painted or not, although it probably will because theres a scabby patch on the drivers side which is in plain sight Would be a shame to fit this engine and the shitty engine bay lets it down.




        Oh and I need to vent my anger with the courier MyHermes. Purchased a Janspeed Manifold and exhaust system from a known breaker at the end of September. It should have been delivered on the 17th Oct, it went back to the depot and no updates happened. They're now saying its damaged and are refusing to deliver it, been instructed to contact the seller. Contacted him and it seems almost impossible to get through to them.... *sigh* They're also refusing the give me the local depot details so I can collect (found out where they are, and are litually 5 minutes down the road)

        I reeeeeally don't want to refit the stock manifold but until its resolved it looks like I'll have to

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        • #19
          So an update on the MyHermes nightmare....

          The tracking showed the parcel was unable to be delivered and to contact the seller. Spoke to the seller who had rung them and was told the packaging was damaged. He struggled to get back in contact so I tried, to which they were quite reluctant on passing on any info at the beginning. Turns out it had arrived at my local depot with the packaging damaged and THE WHOLE EXHAUST was missing!

          I updated the seller and I received a refund almost instantly, I can't fault him for that, it was beyond our control

          The exhaust was the last piece of the puzzle for the engine swap,especially as its one of the first things you see when you open the bonnet. So I contacted Eden at Gizfab and asked what the lead time was for one of his 4-2-1 Manifolds, which is 4-5 weeks. The manifold and front pipe were more money than the complete system I had originally purchased, but this is made from scratch and will be a much better quality stainless than the Janspeed. This gives me plenty of time to get the swap going and luckily its the last thing I need to fit. Here are some photos from their Facebook page.














          Last sunday my friend came over to help remove the engine, it all went pretty smoothly to be honest. Removing 90% of the parts a few days prior certainly saved us alot of time, especially while dodging the rain showers.









          Remembering where everything goes will be a task in itself...haha









          Heres the rust patch I mentioned in the previous post. I thought about fitting an oil catch can, but the inlet/outlets are facing the other side of the bay which isnt ideal. I started off with a degrease and rinse to see what I was facing and it cleaned up pretty well. Thats until it dried and I was left with this



















          There must have been something on the surface because the rest of the engine bay was fine. It would scratch off with my finger nail, but that affected area was very smooth, my finger would skate across with hardly any effort. I was limited with what products to try, the first was vinegar...nope...next was brake cleaner....nope. Hmm.....

          I wanted to avoid painting the rusty area for the fear of not being able to match the red, but this was now the reason to do it. I sanded the area with 150 grit wet and dry and it removed this weird degreaser 'stain' and also helped remove the loose corrosion. Various grades of wet and dry sandpaper later the area was now prepped ready to be treated. Once treated and everything masked off it was time to paint.




          I went with Holts Simoniz Tough satin black for 2 reasons. The first was the satin finish would contrast nicely against the gloss black and silver engine. The second being I used the gloss black version to paint all the parts for the engine, so I know the coverage and finish was going to be very good.

          Here are a couple more photos before the degrease














          A couple of coats later and its looking pretty good. The outside temperate was dropping as the sun was setting, so I didnt have much time.














          Theres a few patches that need another pass over, one or two areas will be quite tricky to get to, mainly behind the brake servo









          Yes I'm aware I've missed a bit above the steering rack, but you're not going to see it









          Theres a couple of runs here and there but it was never going to be mint lol




          Today (06/11/20) I collected the flywheel from the machine shop, a very fast turn around which was nice.

          Next up is to paint the gearbox, once that's done I need to get the engine back in on the mounts which will be the hardest part for me. Everything else can be done as and when.

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          • #20
            Spent a few more hours on the spare engine yesterday.




            As a temporary measure I painted the stock exhaust manifold in VHT Black and half fitted the alternator (may have lost the lower bolt oops)









            Rocker cover and coilpacks fitted (very happy with the colour choices)









            Refitted some of the coolant and fuel hoses. I need to order some replacements as a couple got cut during the initial removal by a friend. He thought they were the same as the 1.0, turns out they're different.



















            The gearbox got a lick of paint too. The original plan was to paint it Smooth Black to match the bottom end and sump, but with the engine bay being black too I needed some more contrast









            I've got a new crankshaft sensor to fit too which will be refitted once the engine and box are back in the car





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            • #21
              That is one hawt engine. RRRRRrrrrrr
              MCM Forum Online meet 2020 right here:
              https://forums.mightycarmods.com/for...-mcm-meet-2020

              Opel Adam S 1.4 Turbo
              Nissan Skyline 25GT-T R34
              Yamaha XV950

              (R-I-P) Ford Focus Mk1 TDDI Wagon
              (Sold) Skoda Rapid TDI
              (Sold) Yamaha FZS600 Fazer

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              • #22
                So today was finally the day we get the engine back into the engine bay,woohoo!

                The first job was to get the engine on the hoist and bolt up the flywheel,clutch and gearbox. Followed by the starter motor (forgot to clean/paint this oops! but you can't see it luckily), engine to gearbox braces and the battery/alternator/starter motor wiring loom.




                With the front and side mounts bolted in place we jacked the driver side up to gain alittle more access to the central brace to re-attach including the rear gearbox mount and gear selector.




                Next up was the wiring loom. Unfortunately without extending and tucking there's not much you can do with this. We started off by plugging in the coilpacks and injectors and fitted the rest as we worked down the loom.

                I'll be trying to tidy it up a little bit more, I may be able to move some stuff and cable tie it in a different position. I won't know until I start I guess




                New fuel filter fitted and the removal of the carbon canister (just need to sort the last remaining hose) helps tidy up that corner. Battery tray was also refitted but need to give the fuse box a good clean.



                Can't do much with the brake servo or PAS lines so that corner will have to stay as it is. I'll look into a replacement PAS reservoir as they all discolour and look crap. Failing that I'll see if I can find one of those sock covers big enough to cover it up.



                Driveshafts have been refitted too. Passenger side inner joint had no grease, it was more like really thin oil. That was cleaned out, both inner boots repacked with fresh grease and new clips.

                The top slam panel and front brace needs to be painted

                Awaiting delivery of a lower radiator mount rubber, PCV seal for the rocker cover and a coolant hose. Once they're here I can refit the radiator (purchased a new one for an Auto which are slightly thicker than the Manual ones), adjust the throttle and clutch cables and refill all of the fluids.

                Then fingers crossed it doesnt leak fuel,oil or coolant on start up lol

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                • #23
                  11/10 would eat off it
                  MCM Forum Online meet 2020 right here:
                  https://forums.mightycarmods.com/for...-mcm-meet-2020

                  Opel Adam S 1.4 Turbo
                  Nissan Skyline 25GT-T R34
                  Yamaha XV950

                  (R-I-P) Ford Focus Mk1 TDDI Wagon
                  (Sold) Skoda Rapid TDI
                  (Sold) Yamaha FZS600 Fazer

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Sunday 22nd November



                    Spent a couple of hours in the afternoon on the car. Unfortunately I couldnt do much until parts arrive but I managed to tick off a few smaller jobs



                    Fuse box and plugs cleaned
                    Battery tray fixed down
                    Battery earth fitted
                    Earth points cleaned to bare metal and fitted
                    Coolant hose/wiring clips fitted
                    Alternator tensioned
                    Exhaust manifold bolted up to front pipe
                    Slam panel loosely fitted
                    Label cable tie tags removed
                    Injector and Coilpack plugs cleaned
                    Wiper motor refitted





                    Today Wednesday 25th November



                    It was certainly a roller-coaster of a day *sigh*

                    Finished painting the top of the Slam panel
                    Filled the gearbox with fluid
                    Fitted the radiator, fan and hoses

                    Laid on the floor to tighten the last jubilee clip, noticed the floor was wet. Gearbox oil was pissing out because the driveshafts weren't pushed in all the way

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