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How to: Auto to manual pedal box E-Series Ford Falcon

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  • MARK_XF UTE
    replied
    on x series falcons you remove the steering column and swap over the pedal boxes, most E series owners use the malwood pin kit (its about $110 bucks) but at least you made the effort for the removing the dash, well done
    Last edited by MARK_XF UTE; 20-08-2013, 11:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • performancecentral
    replied
    Nice progress, I had recently changed from Auto to manual. Its very fulfilling putting the clutch in the first time and getting into gear.

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  • evxr6
    replied
    Originally posted by NetworkFart View Post
    so in this, does that mean if you don't run the fuel injection.. like if you would convert a carby XF it would not have a ECU or engine computer so no need to trick the engine into thinking its an auto and in neutral? does that mean its just a bolt in job if its no fuel Injection? no wiring? right?
    Correct. You don't have to fiddle with ECU's in the X-series. This is mainly because they have a fully hydraulically controlled automatic gearbox ie. not electronically controlled as in EAII onwards (4 speed BTR). In fact if you have a 3 speed EA or an EA with a separate TCM (transmission control module), you would not need to change ECU's as the ECU only controls the engine, not the trans as well.

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  • NetworkFart
    replied
    Originally posted by evxr6 View Post
    Faq's:

    The driveshaft is the same for auto and manual.

    If the car is 4 speed auto you will have to change the ECU to a manual equivalent or 'trick' it into thinking it's in neutral.

    Speedo transducer is the same auto to manual.

    Any e-series T5 will fit on any e-series. AU onwards has a 50mm longer extension housing.
    so in this, does that mean if you don't run the fuel injection.. like if you would convert a carby XF it would not have a ECU or engine computer so no need to trick the engine into thinking its an auto and in neutral? does that mean its just a bolt in job if its no fuel Injection? no wiring? right?

    Leave a comment:


  • evxr6
    replied
    Originally posted by kingtube69 View Post
    WOW! So much work just to change the pedal box!!
    I know right! It's only the 3 nuts at the top necessitate the removal of the dash. Most of the car is pretty easy to work on with some exceptions. I had to pull the engine to replace the sump.

    Originally posted by Snowman
    Are you going to put up the full install? Good work so far
    Unfortunately, I didn't take many photos on the big day. You can find a guide here: http://www.fordmods.com/fordmods-tec...de-t42420.html







    Faq's:

    The driveshaft is the same for auto and manual.

    If the car is 4 speed auto you will have to change the ECU to a manual equivalent or 'trick' it into thinking it's in neutral.

    Speedo transducer is the same auto to manual.

    Any e-series T5 will fit on any e-series. AU onwards has a 50mm longer extension housing.
    Last edited by evxr6; 11-10-2012, 04:01 PM. Reason: FAQ'S

    Leave a comment:


  • Snowman
    replied
    Are you going to put up the full install? Good work so far

    Leave a comment:


  • kingtube69
    replied
    WOW! So much work just to change the pedal box!!

    Leave a comment:


  • How to: Auto to manual pedal box E-Series Ford Falcon

    Since people liked my write up on the extractor install, I thought that I would post up my write up on the pedal box changeover from FordMods:

    Originally posted by bry40l
    did you use an original clutch pedal box or a mal wood clutch pedal?
    Nope, used the original and the best.

    Here's how I did it:

    First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then, remove the centre console:



    Then remove the shroud from the steering column, undo the 2 nuts securing the steering column to the dash. Lower it to the floor.



    Remove the 2 screws from the top of the radio surround and remove the surround:



    Remove the handbrake trim panel and undo the nuts securing the handbrake bracket to the car and firewall. Lower handbrake to the floor:



    Remove the sill panels and kick panels from the left and right hand sides:



    Undo the screw securing the bonnet release cable to the dash. Withdraw rearwards and lower to the floor:



    Undo the screws on the glovebox hinges. Remove glovebox from the car.



    Working through the glovebox hole, disconnect the heater selector cable:



    Undo the 2 allen screws from the dashboard extension panel and remove from the car:



    Well, so it turns out my car was optioned with premium sound:



    Disconnect the wiring for the tweeters (if fitted) and the dashboard earth wire. Undo the lower dash bolts and then get an assistant to help you with the next bit. Undo the top dash screws. Then, you should be able to pull the dash forward enough to suitably mark all of the wiring plugs and
    then disconnect them. You should then be able to swing the dash across and rest it on the driver's seat.

    Undo the 5 nuts securing the pedal box to the firewall and brake booster. Remove the split pin from the brake pedal and slip the brake booster pushrod off the brake pedal. Then remove the 3 nuts holding the top of the pedal box to the firewall:



    Then you should be able to take the blasted thing out.

    Look mum, no brakes!



    Here are the auto and manual pedal boxes side by side:



    Refitting is a reverse of the removal. Or so they say. I had to "Get Custom" with a hammer to bend the top flange forward so it would fit. And there you are. Three pedals:



    I hope it goes back together easily.

    Thanks,

    Evan.

    And it did go back together nicely. Still there to this day.
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