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  • car wont idle

    first of all i was really excited for the MCM meet this sat in melb, but unfortunately my car decided to play up, i want to fix it before this saturday so i can attend...

    problem is when i was driving i reved it a bit and everything locked up. when that happened i tried starting the engine up again, it will only start if i push the accelerator pedal repeatedly, eventually the car will start after 20secs of pushing the accelerator pedal repeatedly, when it does start it wont idle it will just stall, and black smoke comes out of the exhaust with the smell of a fuel (smells like a petrol station)

    now i dont have a AFM im using a HKS v con pro ecu, my car is an autech s15... i did check the vacuum lines but not sure if i checked them right, but i had a feel of them and everything was in place and tight... i dont know what it is, any ideas ?

  • #2
    Originally posted by autech_s15 View Post
    first of all i was really excited for the MCM meet this sat in melb, but unfortunately my car decided to play up, i want to fix it before this saturday so i can attend...

    problem is when i was driving i reved it a bit and everything locked up. when that happened i tried starting the engine up again, it will only start if i push the accelerator pedal repeatedly, eventually the car will start after 20secs of pushing the accelerator pedal repeatedly, when it does start it wont idle it will just stall, and black smoke comes out of the exhaust with the smell of a fuel (smells like a petrol station)

    now i dont have a AFM im using a HKS v con pro ecu, my car is an autech s15... i did check the vacuum lines but not sure if i checked them right, but i had a feel of them and everything was in place and tight... i dont know what it is, any ideas ?
    Is the ECU tuned for the Autech? I'll guess so..

    I think a MAP sensor problem is very possible. If the vacuum line was disconnected, it would read atmospheric pressure, not vacuum. Atmospheric pressure (or near to it) usually only happens at wide-open throttle, so it could think the throttle is all the way down, meaning it'll be expecting a heap of air thus dumping in a heap of fuel. Assuming the MAP sensor itself is working. It could maybe just be faulty and doing the same thing (with the vac lines being OK)

    Maybe find the map sensor, take off the hose, and put a vacuum gauge on it. It should show vacuum. If no change, then you've definitly got a vacuum leak somewhere. If you don't have a gauge, maybe just listen to it or put your thumb on it to hear/feel if it's sucking air.


    That's assuming a vacuum line problem, or part of the intake has come undone. They're likely and simple culprits. But that could be barking up the wrong tree - it could be a number of things. Fuel pressure too high, no/poor ignition (coilpacks / spark plugs), faulty sensors, ECU troubles, wiring faults (if wiring has been modified), etc.

    Originally posted by autech_s15 View Post
    i was driving i reved it a bit and everything locked up
    Define "locked up"?
    Last edited by Rake; 16-04-2012, 11:59 PM.
    "...And there will come a time where the sins
    of man become too great to be ignored."
    -- Revelations 99:13

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Rake View Post
      Is the ECU tuned for the Autech? I'll guess so..

      I think a MAP sensor problem is very possible. If the vacuum line was disconnected, it would read atmospheric pressure, not vacuum. Atmospheric pressure (or near to it) usually only happens at wide-open throttle, so it could think the throttle is all the way down, meaning it'll be expecting a heap of air thus dumping in a heap of fuel. Assuming the MAP sensor itself is working. It could maybe just be faulty and doing the same thing (with the vac lines being OK)

      Maybe find the map sensor, take off the hose, and put a vacuum gauge on it. It should show vacuum. If no change, then you've definitly got a vacuum leak somewhere. If you don't have a gauge, maybe just listen to it or put your thumb on it to hear/feel if it's sucking air.


      That's assuming a vacuum line problem, or part of the intake has come undone. They're likely and simple culprits. But that could be barking up the wrong tree - it could be a number of things. Fuel pressure too high, no/poor ignition (coilpacks / spark plugs), faulty sensors, ECU troubles, wiring faults (if wiring has been modified), etc.



      Define "locked up"?
      I assume he means it stalled, did you say it doesnt have an AFM?
      All Class...
      1979 Datsun 280zx **Sold**
      2008 BMW 325I-M
      1983 BMW 323I

      the handbrake is on the wrong side FFS
      Ben (DevZed): in aus handbrake is next to you
      Ben (DevZed): in america, OTHER SIDE OF DA CAR... stupid.
      F K: in america your fat thighs make that setup not convinient...
      imagine a fat person trying ot use a handbrake that is buried in their thigh fat

      THEY EVEN ADMIT IT!

      Comment


      • #4
        Is is setting a check engine light? if so what is the DTC? If the fault is MAP sensor like Rake suggested then it should show up as it reading out of its tolerated range

        Comment


        • #5
          A car won't stall if it's moving.. Unless you put the clutch in - and even then it should idle, except we have a fault. If the clutch wasn't pushed in, it would still turn but just no power.

          Spyke: Having an aftermarket ECU, the Check Engine light might not operate the same, it might not even come on at all. The standard diagnostic port probably wouldn't work either. We can predict how a standard car would behave, but if it's got aftermarket parts in it, we'd have to consult its documentation for troubleshooting information.
          Last edited by Rake; 17-04-2012, 12:24 AM.
          "...And there will come a time where the sins
          of man become too great to be ignored."
          -- Revelations 99:13

          Comment


          • #6
            Well if we cant get the codes, lets try to watch the signal the mass ariflow is putting out on a scope (if he has access to one) and see what is is reading. Were there any faults leading up to this?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Rake View Post
              Define "locked up"?
              locked up as in brakes went out and steering wheel locked and was hard to move from left to right, i forgot to mention that when you do end up starting the car the engine is very lumpy and sounds rough.

              how do i go about checking the map sensor ? i hate dealing with electrical faults.

              ive heard that it could be the fuel regulator ? could that be it, currently i have a GTR fuel pump and regulator.

              also sparks have been changed about 2000Ks ago, so i dont think the problem would be there.

              what really annoys me is how could the ecu be playing up now(if it is the ecu) ? i drove the car from sydney to melb, working fine, i drove around for a month than BAM....

              Comment


              • #8
                my friend had the pressure regulator go in his 240 sx and it ran like shit and wouldn't idle and blew black smoke, but as long as you were on the throttle it would drive, just not that great

                Comment


                • #9
                  that is exactly what it is, i hope this is the case if it is what pressure regulator can i change it to and how do i change it ? anyone know how ? any brands i can use ?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Rake View Post
                    A car won't stall if it's moving.. Unless you put the clutch in - and even then it should idle, except we have a fault. If the clutch wasn't pushed in, it would still turn but just no power.

                    Spyke: Having an aftermarket ECU, the Check Engine light might not operate the same, it might not even come on at all. The standard diagnostic port probably wouldn't work either. We can predict how a standard car would behave, but if it's got aftermarket parts in it, we'd have to consult its documentation for troubleshooting information.
                    but it could have flooded? that would cause it to stall lol
                    All Class...
                    1979 Datsun 280zx **Sold**
                    2008 BMW 325I-M
                    1983 BMW 323I

                    the handbrake is on the wrong side FFS
                    Ben (DevZed): in aus handbrake is next to you
                    Ben (DevZed): in america, OTHER SIDE OF DA CAR... stupid.
                    F K: in america your fat thighs make that setup not convinient...
                    imagine a fat person trying ot use a handbrake that is buried in their thigh fat

                    THEY EVEN ADMIT IT!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by autech_s15 View Post
                      locked up as in brakes went out and steering wheel locked and was hard to move from left to right, i forgot to mention that when you do end up starting the car the engine is very lumpy and sounds rough.
                      Auto? Manual? What gear? clutch up or down? What are the symptoms when it happened, and what did you do, when it happened. At that moment. Not 20 seconds later once you'd pulled over.


                      how do i go about checking the map sensor ? i hate dealing with electrical faults.
                      I made some suggestions, basically check the vacuum line that goes to the map sensor to actually make sure there's vacuum there. Nothing electric about that.


                      Even just check the tubes that make up the intake. I once popped a intercooler hose. And I once saw a VL Commodore (RB30E) pop off an intake hose just from the motor moving.

                      Where does the Vacuum line for the MAP Sensor come from?
                      Last edited by Rake; 17-04-2012, 05:31 AM.
                      "...And there will come a time where the sins
                      of man become too great to be ignored."
                      -- Revelations 99:13

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        had racv road side assist come and check it out before, turns out the intake was pushing air out of the pod instead of taking it in, the guy told me to take it to a mechanic and do a comp test....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you are getting air pushed out of the intake it sounds like you have screwed up intake valves, or a cam out of time. How many miles are on the car?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            sounds like you've bent some valves :S not good!
                            the build it started as show and quickly turned into GO!

                            Mitsubishi service and electrical manuals hosted by me for you mitsi nuts

                            Originally posted by MOOG
                            right next to my Silvia was an old Mitsubishi colt that had somehow managed to dodge the flames and was fine! absolutely perfect. every ugly panel of it. i could almost feel the Mitsubishi badge laughing at me and I've hated them ever since.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by SpYkE383 View Post
                              If you are getting air pushed out of the intake it sounds like you have screwed up intake valves, or a cam out of time. How many miles are on the car?
                              its got about 107,xxxkm done to the car, how much would it be to fix this anyone know a rough estimate ?

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