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  • Turbo yoda, have you turbo'd any h22a motors? Is it worth turbo'ing a h22a with stock internals and are there any common problems with turboing these mototrs?

    Thanks

    Comment


    • Whats your thoughts on attacking the stock y pipe on a 1jz with a angle grinder to remove it as I cbf removing the turbos until I get a big single

      Comment


      • Hi Turbo Yoda, i have a question more along the lines of ECUs than actual turbos atm. I installed an EJ20R into my LHD 96 Legacy/Liberty wagon, and very quickly realized how much of a pain the second turbo would be to fit, so i took off the twin turbo setup and bolted up a WRX single turbo setup from a 2004 USDM WRX (turbo is the stock TD04L). my question is what kind of ECU should i be running? some people are selling Version 7/8 STi, like a Ver. 8 Spec C ECU with an ecutek license on it, or alternately some 2002/2003 Bugeye WRX ecus are available, they all seem to be around $400 (CDN). now i know theres differences in the older EJ20K/EJ20R and EJ205/207/257 engines like top feed injectors as opposed to side feed, as well as some differences in the crank and cam sensors, not to mention i do not believe i have AVCS whereas the newer engines have dual (correct me if im wrong in assuming any or all of that info). So the question is, can i run those V5-V8 ECUs without too much hassle? or am i better off saving up a bit and picking up something like a SimTek/Megasquirt or another standalone system, and if so which would you recommend?

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Bayerische39 View Post
          Hi Turbo Yoda, i have a question more along the lines of ECUs than actual turbos atm. I installed an EJ20R into my LHD 96 Legacy/Liberty wagon, and very quickly realized how much of a pain the second turbo would be to fit, so i took off the twin turbo setup and bolted up a WRX single turbo setup from a 2004 USDM WRX (turbo is the stock TD04L). my question is what kind of ECU should i be running? some people are selling Version 7/8 STi, like a Ver. 8 Spec C ECU with an ecutek license on it, or alternately some 2002/2003 Bugeye WRX ecus are available, they all seem to be around $400 (CDN). now i know theres differences in the older EJ20K/EJ20R and EJ205/207/257 engines like top feed injectors as opposed to side feed, as well as some differences in the crank and cam sensors, not to mention i do not believe i have AVCS whereas the newer engines have dual (correct me if im wrong in assuming any or all of that info). So the question is, can i run those V5-V8 ECUs without too much hassle? or am i better off saving up a bit and picking up something like a SimTek/Megasquirt or another standalone system, and if so which would you recommend?

          Assuming you can't fit the EJ20R wiring loom in the car I think your best option would be an aftermarket standalone ecu.
          The EJ20R 3 plug loom has almost the same pinout as an EJ20K V3/4 STi ece(which is what we normally use when changing to single turbo here) but considering you can't use the RHD loom I would suggest a standalone.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Carbonfiber View Post
            Whats your thoughts on attacking the stock y pipe on a 1jz with a angle grinder to remove it as I cbf removing the turbos until I get a big single
            DO what you have to do but you will most likely still have to remove the front turbo. A ghetto set of 2.5"dumps on a 1JZ will normally increase the boost from 7psi to 14psi so you need a boost cut defender as well.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by louis96 View Post
              Turbo yoda, have you turbo'd any h22a motors? Is it worth turbo'ing a h22a with stock internals and are there any common problems with turboing these mototrs?

              Thanks
              Sorry mate, haven't done much Honda work, they are not popular over here. US forums should answer your questions.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by D.Spec View Post
                Sorry, forgot to mention that. I replaced the Actuator as well.
                The overboost was occurring with the stock actuator and remained the same once I replaced the actuator with a new one. That new actuator was also running a 7psi spring.
                Overtensioned actuator? SHould only be half a hole misalignment when fitting actuator rod to lever.
                Is it a genuine Trust turbo or a kinugawa replica? Kinugawa stuff is pretty good but I have had some cheaper chinese replicas that have poorly machined holes for the wastegate.

                I am also assuming you have completely removed the AVCR from the system. Boost signal direct from actuator to intercooler pipe. Boost signal taken from inlet manifold.

                Comment


                • thoughts on a Remote turbo system? can't seem to find a straight answer.
                  Gt3076r turbo at 24 PSI Tail 44mm wastegate APS 725 FMIC inter cooler 850cc injectors P.E Perrin fuel rails K&N pod filter TGV deletes Crawford air/oil seporator Aluminum driveshaft Kartboy short shifter Perrin camber kit Perrin bushings Greddy BOV kit, all making for a fun time!

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by xXV3A3XXx View Post
                    thoughts on a Remote turbo system? can't seem to find a straight answer.
                    I've not had much experience with Turbos, nor am I any sort of Yoda...

                    However, I cannot see any fail in this plan.
                    You should do something like this: http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-...in-turbo-taxi/

                    (Because safety's over rated anyway)
                    1983 Porsche 944 (DIY Engine rebuild)
                    Webmaster, tech and content guy at http://www.vmotorsport.com.au

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Turbo Yoda View Post
                      1JZ VVT's are a bit of a problem child. They are excellent in std form but don't respond to mods well. Most seem to make about 350hp atw but suffer from lag badly when the turbo is upsized. That turbo is much too big for the engine IMO and the tomei turbos don't perform well at all IMO.
                      I'd probably lean toward something like a GTX3071 with a .63 housing. You could even drop down to a T28 turbine if you want more response. A GTX2867 with a .84 housing would make the same power as the Arms but have factory response.

                      What ecu is it running? Variable cam timing is very important for spool time and general response.

                      As far as the head goes, it does have tiny exhaust ports, they are around 27mm. To be honest, I would not recommend wasting time and money on a 1JZ VVt. Either leave it relatively std or upgrade to a 2JZ VVT. The 1JZ has limited rod strength also, have seen rod breakage at 450hp atw. A 2JZ VVT will run off the same ecu that you currently have and will make 500hp atw yawning. The Tomei turbo is more appropriately sized for the 2JZ also.


                      Thanks Yoda. I'll get a decent tune on it, and some new plugs and just enjoy it for the time being. I think it should be able to make 265 - 270rwkw with a good tune. I'm also running the stock turbo manifold so that's no doubt restricting things somewhat. Other guys using this turbo have got to about 310rwkw with E85 - and a manual. (mine's auto but shift kitted etc)
                      Currently it's only got a piggy back ECU - Emanage ultimate. The car still puts a big smile on my face, and I've just had a back to metal respray done - so should I feel the need for extra power, a 2JZ conversion isn't out of the equation I guess, as I can always sell off the 1J performance parts.
                      Cheap, fast and reliable. You can only choose two


                      My UZZ31 V8 Soarer. http://forums.mightycarmods.com/show...s-UZZ31-Soarer

                      180rwkw of 1UZ Good-ness :-)

                      Comment


                      • Hey Turbo Yoda, I got an 08' Mazda Bt-50 with the 2.5L WLT diesel engine, not sure if you're familiar with it, but I want to know if there are any aftermarket bolt on turbo's and/or intercoolers I could slap on with none to little DIY mods.
                        Just keep on movin'

                        Comment


                        • Yoda, have you tested of the borg warner EFR turbos? They themselves claim it to be quite astonashing!
                          Only read the 100 or so pages documentation but it seems to be a very well thought out system.
                          http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
                          Last edited by MartZink; 23-08-2013, 09:15 AM.
                          Opel calibra turbo 4x4 build

                          Comment


                          • greetings turbo yoda

                            i have a stock 1993 wrx ra..... i am going to upgrade my turbo with a bigger "bolt on" one.... i'm unsure of what type to get. i've read about the td05 20g and located on the net for about $500nzd,new.....

                            my questions are 1,
                            when i replace the turbo, do i have to upgrade ecu now, or can i get away with only getting a boost controller unit until i can find/afford a new ecu? i'm seeing boost control units for $250nzd, but i was quoted 2 grand for a new ecu...... i will eventually want to do the ecu, but i cant afford 2k at the mo.

                            number 2 question, am i looking at the right model turbo for my replacement?.....

                            i only have about 2k to spend at the moment..for turbo....any advice and sugestion very welcome...

                            thanks in advance
                            adam
                            Last edited by adamR; 23-08-2013, 10:44 PM.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Turbo Yoda View Post
                              Overtensioned actuator? SHould only be half a hole misalignment when fitting actuator rod to lever.
                              Is it a genuine Trust turbo or a kinugawa replica? Kinugawa stuff is pretty good but I have had some cheaper chinese replicas that have poorly machined holes for the wastegate.

                              I am also assuming you have completely removed the AVCR from the system. Boost signal direct from actuator to intercooler pipe. Boost signal taken from inlet manifold.
                              It's a genuine Trust unit and I've never had issue with it before. I've removed the AVCR completely from the system. I'll reroute the boost signal and bypass all of the current lines. Let you know how it goes.


                              Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free
                              Everything is subjective. There are only personal apocalypses. Nothing is a cliche when it's happening to you.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by adamR View Post
                                greetings turbo yoda

                                i have a stock 1993 wrx ra..... i am going to upgrade my turbo with a bigger "bolt on" one.... i'm unsure of what type to get. i've read about the td05 20g and located on the net for about $500nzd,new.....

                                my questions are 1,
                                when i replace the turbo, do i have to upgrade ecu now, or can i get away with only getting a boost controller unit until i can find/afford a new ecu? i'm seeing boost control units for $250nzd, but i was quoted 2 grand for a new ecu...... i will eventually want to do the ecu, but i cant afford 2k at the mo.

                                number 2 question, am i looking at the right model turbo for my replacement?.....

                                i only have about 2k to spend at the moment..for turbo....any advice and sugestion very welcome...

                                thanks in advance
                                adam
                                A $500 TDO5 20G will be junk. Kinugawa quality at minimum or you will be disappointed. They make a bunch of billet units now so might be worth trying it. You can boost those old things as far as the fueling allows, they are pretty tough and the ecu is very flexible to airflow changes. You need a one way valve in map sensor line to stop it seeing boost pressure so it won't boost cut.
                                A bleed valve is enough boost control. A Link plugin would be better though(when funds allow).

                                Comment

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