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I have seen a couple of them but results aren't as impressive as they spruke. Transient response on track cars is meant to be quite impressive but nothing much else is any better from other lead brands. They are also impossible to get so not worth bothering with. They make normal BW's with EFR comp wheels now as well. The bypass valve and boost control on the comp cover were spruked as something special but reality is they are a normal fitment to production KKK/BW turbos on many different euro vehicles.
I agree yoda, im my opinion, its not worth the wait or the price.
On my 2jz, i run a s300SX 9180, and i quite like it. I did another build on an identical engine with an EFR 8374, and it was interesting to see the results for sure.
we overlayed my last dyno run, with his on top. What we noted, is is that he did pick up 500 rpm in spool time, but as soon as he got around the 4500-5000 rpm range, our power curves
were IDENTICAL. In my opinion, its not worth almost triple the price (i picked up my bw s300sx for around 700$ , and i think he paid 2300 for his efr). You really notice the extra spool when you drive it tho
so i like that (=. I'll just build a quick spool valve, then i should be on par.
I thought of this, really interested in seeing this built. When the engine runs on full boost, the air that is let out using the blowoff valve we redirect and capture in a tank. We then use that air to spool up.
It won't have the desired effect, quite the opposide, by filling pressure into the intake between the turbo and the engine, you would just slow the spool of the turbo. The best way would either be to dump it between the engine and the exhaust turbine (but that might mess with the O2 sensor), or just vent the BOV to atmosphere for a fraction of a second so the wheel can spin up with less back pressure.
Or, y'know, just install NOx, that does help with spool *and* power.
Modifying is a lifestyle!
Originally posted by milkchicken
Oh man I hate it when the bolts on my car decide to strip, its so awkward.. I'm like dude I've got a partner I can't be seen doing this...
Hey turbo yoda.
Building & tuning Toyota 7AGTE, using ECU & sensors from Gen2, 3SGTE
REASON: Vic-roads compliance. NO ADJUSTABLES - FPR, ECU, cam pulleys etc... Must supply engineer, a compression map - but don't yet know how to read them. Vic EPA scrutineers also know about different computer wires coming from inside factory ECU case, so plan is to fit new CAT & exhaust then use TOYOBD1 for initial tune, trial adjusting AFM settings if need be and different injectors, boost settings, ignition timing etc.
Once good AFR's are achieved, do some steady state driving / data logging, then preliminary emissions test in Sydney before driving back to Vic for
$1k emissions test.
Specs: Daily Driven: 1200kg, Corolla AE95 4wd wagon
Ported 16v small-port w/3-angle valves & seats, ARP head-studs, 55mm 3sgte throttle w/ reduced butterfly spindle. 4age smallport-intake - (overall plenum capacity 2850cc) 430-440cc injectors for safe/lean tune - avoids running rich @ hi revs, Phenolic-resin spacer: between head & intake to reduce induction temps. Small cams for emissions - (factory bigports) 240 duration, 7.6mm lift. MRP-cam-sprocket resets timing. Intake opens 9* BTDC, closes 51* ABDC. Exhaust opens 51* BBDC, closes 9* ATDC.
Oil-squirters, forged rods, ceramic top pistons, 9.4:1CR, FMIC, Full alloy radiator, Walbro Fuel Pump, 3sgte-FPR, 4wd 6-bolt flywheel w/ 3 x hard-steel dowels & arp bolts, mr2 4agze cerametallic clutch, E153 -Camry gearbox
9.4:1 CR is higher than 3SGTE 8.8:1, so.. estimate setting boost around 8 or 9PSI as a rough start and adjust from there depending on tuning data.
Valve diameter/lift & engine capacity are a few mm's & CC's smaller, so won't flow as much as 3SGTE. Some say, I might have challenges getting it to run, but really Toyota ECU's are designed for wide range of countries, air temps, altitudes and oxygen densities. Owners use bigger cams & timing to change volumetric efficiency all the time with factory computers. So it stands to reason it can work, because ECU's respond to sensor inputs, ..without actually 'knowing' engine capacity.
Pass emissions first & foremost.
Enjoy as a daily
Try some events like track days, hill climbs, maybe TCCAV's Winton 10hr
That's when I'll consider upgrading to LINK ST185 ECU, bigger cams and adjustable pulleys.
Websearch suggest: GT28BB, TDO4's, T3/4, KO3/KO4's, ..BB IHI RHF4B VF13 Twin scroll, similar to 1.8L 7AFTE Corolla Sportivo & 2L Subaru legacy
Would larger compressor housing & wheel help maximize torque OR run too hot with 9.4 CR in summer?
Turbo needs to be as strong & reliable as the engine I've built. Probably twinscroll with best torque curve and enough efficiency left in the compression map to wind up boost a few psi on track days..
Been looking at Kinugawas, but I really don't know one brand from another or trim specs, ..just starting to get my head around all that stuff.
I have a 1993 Saab 900 Turbo(I'm in love with it, it's a mad little car.), my question to you is, which engine and gearbox set up would most easily be used to do a conversion from the b202 engine currently in it? Reason for conversion, no parts, no parts, no parts.
Hi turbo yoda! i messaged you on facebook, but i opted to post here also. I have a mitsubishi adventure which has a 4d56 engine ( its called freeca in taiwan and kuda in indonesia) and i am member of the mitsubishi adventure club here in the philippines. There are just a couple members who have installed intercooler turbos/or just turbo on their engines. However, there are many concern raised about the suitability of turbo being installed bolt on without much modification in the N/A 4d56 engine which is making me reluctant to do this mod.
The intake manifold and exhaust manifold has to be changed, thats a no brainer shown in the first picture. there's an abundance here in the philippines available at many surplus store.
But the main concern raised were the pistons, and can the engine take the additional boost. Cause many have raised concern that it might damage the pistons or worse, blow the engine.
The compression ratio of the engine is 21:1, and it is regardless if it is N/A or a turbo charged one based from the manual. But there are noticeable difference in the piston sizes as shown on the second picture. Based on the picture, do you think i should look for pistons at the surplus shops that are fitted for a 4d56T engine or there are ways to do this without any piston modification? Like for example low boost turbo? if yes, from what engine specifically? Additional headgaskets? i heard it can lower the compression. Installing blow off valves? i heard it relieves pressure build up...
Please help me i just want to do this the right way the first time around without any worries and at the same time add more Horse power from the stock 73HP . Here's the link to the manual: http://mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua/Man...ee9067/11B.pdf. Thank you in advance! <3