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  • Originally posted by MartZink View Post
    Yoda, have you tested of the borg warner EFR turbos? They themselves claim it to be quite astonashing!
    Only read the 100 or so pages documentation but it seems to be a very well thought out system.
    http://www.full-race.com/articles/efrturbotechbrief.pdf
    I have seen a couple of them but results aren't as impressive as they spruke. Transient response on track cars is meant to be quite impressive but nothing much else is any better from other lead brands. They are also impossible to get so not worth bothering with. They make normal BW's with EFR comp wheels now as well. The bypass valve and boost control on the comp cover were spruked as something special but reality is they are a normal fitment to production KKK/BW turbos on many different euro vehicles.

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    • I agree yoda, im my opinion, its not worth the wait or the price.

      On my 2jz, i run a s300SX 9180, and i quite like it. I did another build on an identical engine with an EFR 8374, and it was interesting to see the results for sure.

      we overlayed my last dyno run, with his on top. What we noted, is is that he did pick up 500 rpm in spool time, but as soon as he got around the 4500-5000 rpm range, our power curves

      were IDENTICAL. In my opinion, its not worth almost triple the price (i picked up my bw s300sx for around 700$ , and i think he paid 2300 for his efr). You really notice the extra spool when you drive it tho

      so i like that (=. I'll just build a quick spool valve, then i should be on par.

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      • I thought of this, really interested in seeing this built. When the engine runs on full boost, the air that is let out using the blowoff valve we redirect and capture in a tank. We then use that air to spool up.

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        • It won't have the desired effect, quite the opposide, by filling pressure into the intake between the turbo and the engine, you would just slow the spool of the turbo. The best way would either be to dump it between the engine and the exhaust turbine (but that might mess with the O2 sensor), or just vent the BOV to atmosphere for a fraction of a second so the wheel can spin up with less back pressure.

          Or, y'know, just install NOx, that does help with spool *and* power.
          Modifying is a lifestyle!
          Originally posted by milkchicken
          Oh man I hate it when the bolts on my car decide to strip, its so awkward.. I'm like dude I've got a partner I can't be seen doing this...

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          • Hey turbo yoda.
            Building & tuning Toyota 7AGTE, using ECU & sensors from Gen2, 3SGTE
            REASON: Vic-roads compliance. NO ADJUSTABLES - FPR, ECU, cam pulleys etc... Must supply engineer, a compression map - but don't yet know how to read them. Vic EPA scrutineers also know about different computer wires coming from inside factory ECU case, so plan is to fit new CAT & exhaust then use TOYOBD1 for initial tune, trial adjusting AFM settings if need be and different injectors, boost settings, ignition timing etc.
            TOYOBD1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYWoQRHmmi8
            Once good AFR's are achieved, do some steady state driving / data logging, then preliminary emissions test in Sydney before driving back to Vic for
            $1k emissions test.
            Specs: Daily Driven: 1200kg, Corolla AE95 4wd wagon
            Ported 16v small-port w/3-angle valves & seats, ARP head-studs, 55mm 3sgte throttle w/ reduced butterfly spindle. 4age smallport-intake - (overall plenum capacity 2850cc) 430-440cc injectors for safe/lean tune - avoids running rich @ hi revs, Phenolic-resin spacer: between head & intake to reduce induction temps. Small cams for emissions - (factory bigports) 240 duration, 7.6mm lift. MRP-cam-sprocket resets timing. Intake opens 9* BTDC, closes 51* ABDC. Exhaust opens 51* BBDC, closes 9* ATDC.
            BOTTOM-END
            Oil-squirters, forged rods, ceramic top pistons, 9.4:1CR, FMIC, Full alloy radiator, Walbro Fuel Pump, 3sgte-FPR, 4wd 6-bolt flywheel w/ 3 x hard-steel dowels & arp bolts, mr2 4agze cerametallic clutch, E153 -Camry gearbox
            Rev-limit c7250
            9.4:1 CR is higher than 3SGTE 8.8:1, so.. estimate setting boost around 8 or 9PSI as a rough start and adjust from there depending on tuning data.
            Valve diameter/lift & engine capacity are a few mm's & CC's smaller, so won't flow as much as 3SGTE. Some say, I might have challenges getting it to run, but really Toyota ECU's are designed for wide range of countries, air temps, altitudes and oxygen densities. Owners use bigger cams & timing to change volumetric efficiency all the time with factory computers. So it stands to reason it can work, because ECU's respond to sensor inputs, ..without actually 'knowing' engine capacity.
            GOALS:
            Pass emissions first & foremost.
            Enjoy as a daily
            Try some events like track days, hill climbs, maybe TCCAV's Winton 10hr
            That's when I'll consider upgrading to LINK ST185 ECU, bigger cams and adjustable pulleys.
            Websearch suggest: GT28BB, TDO4's, T3/4, KO3/KO4's, ..BB IHI RHF4B VF13 Twin scroll, similar to 1.8L 7AFTE Corolla Sportivo & 2L Subaru legacy
            Would larger compressor housing & wheel help maximize torque OR run too hot with 9.4 CR in summer?
            Turbo needs to be as strong & reliable as the engine I've built. Probably twinscroll with best torque curve and enough efficiency left in the compression map to wind up boost a few psi on track days..
            Been looking at Kinugawas, but I really don't know one brand from another or trim specs, ..just starting to get my head around all that stuff.
            Thanks.
            Last edited by JedMan; 01-03-2017, 12:06 AM.

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            • Turbo Yoda,

              I have a 1993 Saab 900 Turbo(I'm in love with it, it's a mad little car.), my question to you is, which engine and gearbox set up would most easily be used to do a conversion from the b202 engine currently in it? Reason for conversion, no parts, no parts, no parts.

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              • Hi turbo yoda! i messaged you on facebook, but i opted to post here also. I have a mitsubishi adventure which has a 4d56 engine ( its called freeca in taiwan and kuda in indonesia) and i am member of the mitsubishi adventure club here in the philippines. There are just a couple members who have installed intercooler turbos/or just turbo on their engines. However, there are many concern raised about the suitability of turbo being installed bolt on without much modification in the N/A 4d56 engine which is making me reluctant to do this mod.

                The intake manifold and exhaust manifold has to be changed, thats a no brainer shown in the first picture. there's an abundance here in the philippines available at many surplus store.
                But the main concern raised were the pistons, and can the engine take the additional boost. Cause many have raised concern that it might damage the pistons or worse, blow the engine.

                The compression ratio of the engine is 21:1, and it is regardless if it is N/A or a turbo charged one based from the manual. But there are noticeable difference in the piston sizes as shown on the second picture. Based on the picture, do you think i should look for pistons at the surplus shops that are fitted for a 4d56T engine or there are ways to do this without any piston modification? Like for example low boost turbo? if yes, from what engine specifically? Additional headgaskets? i heard it can lower the compression. Installing blow off valves? i heard it relieves pressure build up...

                Please help me i just want to do this the right way the first time around without any worries and at the same time add more Horse power from the stock 73HP . Here's the link to the manual: http://mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua/Man...ee9067/11B.pdf. Thank you in advance! <3

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                • So here's my dilemma. I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS body in fairly good condition. Now comes the fun part. The engine is kinda blown. I was thinking, instead of rebuiling the old 420A that I could swap a newer motor, something with more kick to it. So far I'm open to suggestions on the motor so far as I can use the old engine mounts already in the car. The engine I was thinking of putting in there was an SR16VE N1, but I don't know if it or any other will fit with the engine mounts. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

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                  • Oh ye wise man mmmhhh.... I have a doozy of a question I have been dieing to ask you. I have this lotus Esprit SE currently set up in its near stock configuration with :
                    a Garrett T3 with a 50 trim compressor wheel. It has a maximum flow rating of 30 lbs/min at a pressure ratio of 2.2 (1.2 bar boost) with 58% efficiency. 270* bearings.
                    2174cc traditional 4 cylinder engine 76.2mm stroke and 95.28mm bore.
                    The exhaust manifold is cast and prone to breakage.
                    Cooling is provided by a charge cooler with a 60mm inlet and outlet.
                    It is also fitted with a GM batchfire fuel system and unknown to me injectors.
                    The engine has just over 500km on it since rebuild. I picked it up with 20km on the rebuild.
                    3 things I want to change that I have listed:
                    I am currently saving up for a Haltech Elite 750 to control fuel and ignition.

                    There is a stainless header available for 1350 Pounds sterling... I want to build an equal length titanium unit or if titanium is a bad choice of metal High quality stainless. there are two reasons for wanting Titanium. 1 I want to wrap the header to keep lotuses #1 killer away. Fire. 2. Titanium shouldn't corrode under normal road use or racing conditions. I lied 3. Its a light unit to remove and install. I think for the price I can do it. But some advice would be cool.

                    The turbo. I am clueless utterly clueless but I am sure there is a decently priced off the shelf unit that is much better than what I have. Many have upgraded the housing alone and gotten results. The later models with same everything else went to 60mm trim. There is a guy making 400 to the ground H.P. but hes got his super special turbo regarded as a secret. This annoys me as much as asking 1300 pounds for an exhaust manifold that has had trouble with failing welds.. Please. I plan on keeping this car for a long time and I am tired of beating the snot out of this not so good turbocharger. A size and type would be nice. I would like to adapt whatever to V bands at least on the outlet side. Oh... a 4 inch dump will be used any other day than Shaken day.
                    Please man. I read a lot of articles actually so many I feel more lost than ever. Just a little advice on whats proper for my engine size.

                    The plan: 380 roadable KW.
                    It is already horrendous at low speeds and off idle due to the injection and ignition so Something mildly inappropriate for street is not a big deal.

                    Comment


                    • Titanium is a poor choice for a manifold, it fatigues under that sort of temperature. a cast manifold is the best choice.
                      The turbo is ancient junk, bin it and use a GTX3071.
                      A 3" dump is more than enough.
                      Upgrade the ecu and wiring and use modern injectors and you should have a well behaved fast and reasonably economical car.

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                      • Hey mate! Thanks for the fast reply on that one! I would use cast if there was something decent just because you said so. I also know they can live long but actually the stock unit flows like an elderly persons bowels so I either have to port cast....Erm..NO! or build something. I will try to find a decent alloy to weld. It looked like you used some pretty standard grade steel on youtube but I also noticed that you seemed to be more going for just make it work and flow good versus all you could squeeze out of it from what I saw I probably didnt see much. I only saw your wagon and something you did for MCM I think it was the subaru turbo into a.... Miata... I have a bad memory.
                        My point is that I want to get the max out of it as I am keeping it for a long time so I was looking for an alloy that isnt a killer to weld and has great corrosion and heat resistance. But thats not so much of a question if you don't care to answer its fine.
                        I do have a much bigger question. I get the 3 inch dump as I am not doing 1/4 mile passes every day but I was wondering about the why part of this turbo. I looked at the map and for a dummy like me it looks great but I would not mind at all some watered down why its good.
                        By the way I hope the way I typed this off does not come off disrespectful or prick like I actually am writing you because of how well those particular cars ran and the fact that you are the go to guy for MCM. Thank you for even looking at the post man!
                        Sorry about the link. Some problem with either me or the browser or the PC... I cant post without either a link or photo...

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                        • Hey Turbo Yoda
                          Me and my Dad want to do a major project and convert our valiant form NA to turbo or supercharged and we have a problem we don't know anything about compression ratio. We don't know if we should keep it the same 9.5:1 or spend more money on high compression pistons and do a cheap engine rebuild. Please help
                          classics all the way

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                          • Dude I am a little boozy but I totally think I can help. Plymouth Vallianit right? First of all bro what year are you talking about. second 9.5:1 Feck no! You will end up with a hot pistol ready to blow. so lets say for the sake of argument that you have sast aluminum pistones. They would be beaten hard at 20 psi. If you wanted a minor boost at say like 5psi you could just add the turbo and upgrade the carb and do a blowthrough. If you wanted to whamp the piss right out of it and shit unicorn rainbows. you should upgrade to a forged piston and a better head gasket ect. Internals make the external parts work. I am just saying if you wanna blow an old engine like that hard you gotta upgrade the internals. 4 bold main machining good rods bearings and pistones. The more percise she is the more h.p. you can get.
                            You should post your desired h.p. what ignition and fueling you want to do. If you want to step in a cam some pissers and a carb... Me thinks you could do a sweet blow through setup.

                            Not speaking for yoda or this forum....My advice is bullshit at best. Buttt.... I think your question is a bit vague and needs some goals stated.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Robert View Post
                              Dude I am a little boozy but I totally think I can help. Plymouth Vallianit right? First of all bro what year are you talking about. second 9.5:1 Feck no! You will end up with a hot pistol ready to blow. so lets say for the sake of argument that you have sast aluminum pistones. They would be beaten hard at 20 psi. If you wanted a minor boost at say like 5psi you could just add the turbo and upgrade the carb and do a blowthrough. If you wanted to whamp the piss right out of it and shit unicorn rainbows. you should upgrade to a forged piston and a better head gasket ect. Internals make the external parts work. I am just saying if you wanna blow an old engine like that hard you gotta upgrade the internals. 4 bold main machining good rods bearings and pistones. The more percise she is the more h.p. you can get.
                              You should post your desired h.p. what ignition and fueling you want to do. If you want to step in a cam some pissers and a carb... Me thinks you could do a sweet blow through setup.

                              Not speaking for yoda or this forum....My advice is bullshit at best. Buttt.... I think your question is a bit vague and needs some goals stated.
                              thanks for some help buts its and Australian (Chrysler) valiant charger hemi 6, 265 I have seen turbo versions none were blow through carb style and all had then engines highly modified we want a more street able version than we also can take to the track without being kicked out for going faster than 10s as an example I've link a different charger with a turbo set up. also again thanks for some advice.
                               
                              classics all the way

                              Comment


                              • This guy in the vid is running a huge turbo. The first thing I would do is check out what the rods can do and what the pistons can do. Factory pistons for N/A are generally not a good mix. I had planned on talking to a machine shop buddy for you but it aint happening I am afraid. Just being me and wanting to go boost. Look into a computer to do EFI and build the internals to spec. If your at 9.5 and start adding boost you better be running higher octant. Just look at this article by Garrett that should start you:
                                https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbo...tio_with_boost
                                Sorry I couldnt dig up more.

                                Again I do not speak for Turbo Yoda or MCM in any way. Just a boozy mechanic hobbyist that wants to go fast.

                                Also Mr. Turboyoda. I have decided that if its a viable option to go with inconel and rent some tig time or get my tig sent to Japan. I am just going to copy the best flowing design I have seen for this car and then wrap it.
                                Last edited by Robert; 28-10-2017, 02:40 AM.

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