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Hankey's guide to the Mighty Toyota K-Series engine 3K ,4K, 5K, and 7K.

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  • Hankey's guide to the Mighty Toyota K-Series engine 3K ,4K, 5K, and 7K.

    So you decided to buy one, huh? Now comes the headache, you drove the car, and now you're disgusted and how little power you had. You know what I'm talking about, that little four cylinder that came in your KE Corolla or KP Starlet.

    Welcome to Hankey's guide to the Toyota K-Series, from rebuilds to modding.

    First thing you probably noticed when you drove it away was how low it was on power, correct? Here is where you're given two options.

    You can either;

    A: Ditch the K-engine and upgrade to a 3T, or 4AGE, or SR, KA, CA, or whatever engine you want.

    or

    B: Keep the little K series in there and have some fun with it!

    If you're still reading this, you probably are going with B, for now atleast.

    Types of "K" engines.

    When you say "K", most KE30/KE70/KP60 guys will think of either the 3K, or the 4K, but believe it or not there are quite a few of these, I'll go over the most important.

    "K" Engine
    This was the 1.1 liter "proto" engine, the first version of the K-series, found in the KP30 Publica, and the KE10 Corolla, this engine if very plain and not much can be done with it, if you have it, it's probably best to just drive it and leave it alone, not much is known about the capabilities of this engine because it's pretty rare.

    2K
    This is the 1.0 liter engine found in the KP30/KP40/KP60s Publica/Starlet. It only made 50 HP, it's advised this engine not be modded due to a common casting defect in the pistons made any and all pinging a potentially dangerous to the engine.

    3K
    This is probably the most common of the K-series engines, it is a 1.2L. It came equipped in the Corolla, Starlet, Publica, Kijang, liteace, it has a 75MM bore and 66MM stroke.

    This is the most popular to mod because the large bore makes for a very rev happy engine, and lets be honest, who DOESN'T smile at a 1.2L turning 9000 RPM?

    3K-B
    This derivative came equipped with a highcompression big port head and twin carburetors, when most people try to build a high-performance "K" series, they start with a 3K-B, or find a 3K-B head.

    3K-R

    Good luck finding one, these are as rare as rocking horseshit to find, but they were the most high-output K series designed, Originally built by TOM's for the KP40 Starlet racecars, this 3K was bored out to 1.3liters, it came equipped with a DOHC 16v head, uprighted cross-flow, this puppy made a whopping 180HP at over 9700 RPM.

    4K

    This is my favorite K engine because it has a near square bore and stroke, this engine is essentially a stroked 3K, with a 75MM bore and 73MM stroke.

    4K-E

    This is a fuel-injected version of the 4K, I believe it was only released in the US to meed EPA standards, but I might be wrong, someone double check! If you're planning on running a turbo on your engine, it would probably be a good idea to find the EFI parts, as it would be easier to tune this than to pressurize a carburetor.

    5K

    This is basically a 4K, but bored out to 1.5L, with an 80.5MM bore, I don't know too much about these, but to my knowledge they make good power due to the significantly larger displacement.

    7K

    This is a 5K, but stroked to 1.8, it has a 80.5MM bore, but an 87.5 MM stroke, it makes much more power than the other K series engines, but it's all in the low revs due to the large stroke.

    The 7K had a bellhousing that would mate the K series engines to the W58 transmission, and would be essential to anyone building a super-high performance K-series.

    MAKING POWER IN YOUR K-ENGINE

    The K engine is actually a fairly easy to upgrade engine, now of course, it's only a 1.0-1.5 (plus the 7K, but I don't like stroker engines, so I won't talk about that one) so you won't quite get break-neck power like you would from tuning an SR20, or a 3SGE, or anything along those lines, so if you're building a DRIFT KE70, you should probably pick another engine, but if you really want to run a K, go for the 7K due to the large stroke and good torque.

    Now I'm trying to find the best way to tell you all the mods you can do to every engine, but I'm just going to copy what Billzilla did with the 4AGE tuning guide and go by increments of horsepower.

    3K/4K Single carb.

    60 HP
    This is your basic K engine, a freshly built engine with good oil will easily make this right out of the box.

    60-65 HP

    Getting up to 60-65 HP is really easy, this is just a matter removing your cat, giving yourself a full 2" header-back exhaust, and scrapping the stock oil-bath intake for something else a little cooler and easier flowing.

    65-70 HP

    Here is when you need to start opening the engine a little bit, not much, but cams will help you get more power here. some good 260 duration cams (I buy from Auckland Cams) will easily bring you to high-60s.

    This is also about the end of what the stock carburetor can do, BUT a stock Weber 32/36 carburetor will be a basic bolt-on and will support your power output just fine.

    70-80 HP

    Just a matter of bigger cams at this point, 284 duration cams should bring you to high 70's and maybe even low 80s if you time them right.

    80-95 HP

    Now you're starting to make some good power, at this point you're going to need 295 duration cams, but to get the most out of these cams, the compression ratio needs to go up some, if you're just shooting for about 100HP, you could probably just take the head off and mill it down to about a 10.0:1 compression ratio and it will be just fine, but my preferance is to find a 3K-B head which has a smaller combustion chamber, and try to find the matching dual carb intake, and hold onto that for later if you're shooting for even more power.

    While the head is off, you should probably give it a three angle valve job, and match the exhaust ports, but not the intake ports. Deshroud the combustion chambers a little bit, and give it stiffer valves, I managed to score a TRD set, so you'll have to dig around and find some that might work in your head.

    95-105 HP
    Upgrade the cam to about a 300 duration, not much else has to be done here, you'll be sitting pretty at about 100 with the single carb, twin carbs will yield about 105-110 ish.

    105-110 HP
    Now the K is becoming a VERY serious engine, say goodbye to the good fuel economy and most streetability.

    After around 105, intake, now if you managed to find a 3K-B intake, you can use your old Weber 32/36 and just buy another one to match. Or it's time to run two side draft carbs, I prefer Mikuni 44's, but those are discontinued, so Weber 40 DCOE's are probably your best bet in this case.

    You're also nearing the end of what the stock bottom end is capable of, the crank is fine up to about 160 ish, but the rods and pistons need to be addressed

    Now, lots of people use Daihatsu CB23 pistons, I personally have not done these because I got lucky and found TRD 11.5:1 pistons, so I don't know how the pistons affect the compression ratio, but the head can be milled no problem, these came out of the 1.0 Charade BUT the charade only came as a 3CYL, so you'll have to custom order the pistons to get the extra one. They are 76MM, so the block will need to be bored out, but the wrist pin is the same diameter.

    The rods have some casting marks, so these needs to be polished off, hitting them with a Dremel would be a good idea at this point, but make sure all pistons weight about the same. With the rods cleaned up, they should be good to 130-ish horsepower.

    110-140
    If you've made it this far, your car won't be doing much more on the street unless it's a sole weekend warrior.

    Assuming you've done all the previous mods, your current restriction is your valve size, actually, it's been restricted since about 90 HP, but we've been running with it.

    Now, you HAVE to get bigger valves. Almost any valve size will work as long as it doesn't shroud too much. I heard of guys putting in 22R valves into these things. This is not something I would do at home though, definately take the head to a shop and get it done by a professional. Getting the proper sized valves and getting portsizes are INVALUABLE to getting more power.

    140-160 HP
    Truthfully, I have NEVER seen a K-series get this powerful, apparently TRD made the Stage 3 3K run up to 160HP, so it might be worth it to find that guide if you care so much. I'm not sure the real restrictions at this point, here, you would have to order custom connecting rods, something light like titanium, new pistons will likely be needed at this point, custom ones will have to be ordered, as I don't think anyone made aftermarket charade pistons. A cam is definately needed, I'm sure that the weber 40's will be able to withstand this power, but I at this point would sell them and make the upgrade to 45's. A bigger cam too, Auckland doesn't make a cam this big, but it's going to have to have high lift and LONG duration, something like 350 duration.

    Word limit reached, continue here.http://forums.mightycarmods.com/show...055#post478055
    Last edited by Hankey; 24-06-2013, 10:18 AM.
    Originally posted by MOOG
    Super Weasel Piss - sounds like its worth trying!
    Originally posted by brian_rs/ss
    what is the US version of a cressida?

  • #2
    I can't rep you anymore unfortunately. When you refer to the rods, are you talking about the stock rods or the Daihatsu rods?
    1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 - Build Thread
    2004 Subaru Liberty Sedan EJ25 5sp Manual - Current Daily Thread
    1994 Toyota Corolla Hatch Csi Ltd. 4AFE 4sp Auto - Sold 25/01/13
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    • #3
      Originally posted by ThePotatoSmasher View Post
      I can't rep you anymore unfortunately. When you refer to the rods, are you talking about the stock rods or the Daihatsu rods?
      It's referring to the stock K rods, I'm unsure as to whether the crank is the same diameter as the Charade rods.
      Originally posted by MOOG
      Super Weasel Piss - sounds like its worth trying!
      Originally posted by brian_rs/ss
      what is the US version of a cressida?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Hankey View Post
        It's referring to the stock K rods, I'm unsure as to whether the crank is the same diameter as the Charade rods.
        My Haynes KE70 Repair Manual says this,

        "Crankshaft and Connecting Rods
        Connecting rod journal
        Diameter - 41.976 to 42.000mm"

        So the short answer I imagine is 42mm, I found some specs of a CB23 and CB60/61 engines and it says "crank pin journal" (the same as "connecting rod journal") and gives measurements of 39.95 to 39.99mm so they would be too small. However the CB70/80, which is the turbocharged variant, has a crank pin journal of 42.96 to 42.99mm. So they would be too big. Also the CB70/80 has a wrist pin diameter of 19mm. So perhaps these rods are stronger? Would make sense as they were in the turbocharged variant. I guess you could use those pistons and rods together they would just be loose on the crank shaft, I wouldn't know if there is some fancy way of making up the difference but it would probably be dodgy. So I guess it would be easiest to stay with the 4K rods.
        1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 - Build Thread
        2004 Subaru Liberty Sedan EJ25 5sp Manual - Current Daily Thread
        1994 Toyota Corolla Hatch Csi Ltd. 4AFE 4sp Auto - Sold 25/01/13
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        • #5
          160+ HP
          This is up in 3K-R territory now, if you've made it this far, you must have some serious cash, and you're going to need it.

          Don't even try to drive this engine on the streets, you will need to be driving at 5000 RPM+ to do ANYTHING.

          Say goodbye to your 3K and 4K, we're going to need to need something bigger.

          At this point, what I would do is take a 5K block, and sleeve it bigger, something like 87mm, this will let you slip an F20C piston. While we're here, we're going to need to get a new flat plane crankshaft made from CNC, I would make the stroke something like 70MM, because we're going to need to turn this engine over FAST. This engine will be a 1.7L, with almost NO powerband, this thing will NOT see peak power until upwards of 12000 RPM. An insanely high cam and insanely tight valvesprings. The engine will also need custom mounts to be uprighted, a custom oil pickup, and the shifter bent along with the intake plates matched to correct the positon of your carbs. This might as well be a formula one engine you're building.

          OR

          At this point, you could just sell your 100 whatever horsepower 3K/4K/5K, buy a running 5K, bore .5MM it to run a forged, low-comp 4AGE piston, get a custom rod made, megasquirt/EFI it, and just turbo the damn thing. I know with custom rods, 4AGE pistons, megasquirt, and a TD04 would easily make you 160+ HP for a fraction of the cost of building a flatplane crank, or any of that crap, then the money you saved can go towards buying a 7K bellhousing and mating a W58 to it, and getting a good rear-end.

          If anyone has any questions involving a K-Series engine, go ahead and post it below, I'll be more than happy to help you.
          Originally posted by MOOG
          Super Weasel Piss - sounds like its worth trying!
          Originally posted by brian_rs/ss
          what is the US version of a cressida?

          Comment


          • #6
            3K-R sounds like a champ, 180 HP from a 1.3 ltr N/A?
            sigpic JDM Vitz 1.3 ltr 2NZ POWA !!

            http://forums.mightycarmods.com/show...-the-Caribbean

            Comment


            • #7
              I think we need to discuss piston options a bit more. The Charade pistons seem good but being a 3 cylinder it's quite annoying to try and get 4. Also in Australia at least it's hard to find these pistons for sale on their own. Wreakers seem only willing to sell a complete engine, which again only has 3 of the 4 pistons needed. I was told about using Mazda 323/Ford Lazer 1.6 pistons which have a 76mm bore. Would this be boring it out too much? These engines are far more avalible and i've been able to find used pistons seperatly. Its also a 4 cylinder, yay. Thoughts Hankey?
              1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 - Build Thread
              2004 Subaru Liberty Sedan EJ25 5sp Manual - Current Daily Thread
              1994 Toyota Corolla Hatch Csi Ltd. 4AFE 4sp Auto - Sold 25/01/13
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              • #8
                Originally posted by ThePotatoSmasher View Post
                I think we need to discuss piston options a bit more. The Charade pistons seem good but being a 3 cylinder it's quite annoying to try and get 4. Also in Australia at least it's hard to find these pistons for sale on their own. Wreakers seem only willing to sell a complete engine, which again only has 3 of the 4 pistons needed. I was told about using Mazda 323/Ford Lazer 1.6 pistons which have a 76mm bore. Would this be boring it out too much? These engines are far more avalible and i've been able to find used pistons seperatly. Its also a 4 cylinder, yay. Thoughts Hankey?
                Still unsure about the wristpin size, but the 4K can take bore up to about 77-78 MM, wrist pins are easier to customize however, my 327 Rambler is running 327 Chevy pistons with a bore on it and it's been going for about a year now.

                Bear with me, I'll find as many pistons as I can with 75-78 MM bores. But I still say the 5K block with 4AGE piston might work.
                Originally posted by MOOG
                Super Weasel Piss - sounds like its worth trying!
                Originally posted by brian_rs/ss
                what is the US version of a cressida?

                Comment


                • #9
                  It seems 1G rods will bolt right in and give us a 20mm pin height.

                  4K pin height : 18mm
                  1G-GE pin height: 20MM

                  1A 77.5mm
                  2A 76mm
                  3A 77.5mm
                  5A 78.7mm
                  6A 76mm

                  D13 75mm
                  D15 75mm
                  D16 75mm will bolt to the 1G piston, but will yield LOWER compression.

                  GSX-R1000 75.5mm (Compression height of 25.5 with both an 18mm pin height, and a 20mm pin height) THIS IS THE PISTON FOR TURBOCHARGING

                  Mazda E3-E5 (Ford Meteor Engine) 77mm Too low compression, might as well go for the D16 pistons

                  VW 1200 Aircooled 77mm
                  VW EA827 1.3 75mm
                  VW EA827 1.4 76.5

                  One of these HAS to have the wristpin height we're looking for. Powerwise I feel the most optimistic about the D16 pistons (because high-revving VTEC) and the GSX-R1100 pistons because they can withstand up to 200 HP.

                  Does your KE70 book say what the wrist pin height/diameter is? Once I have that, I can get searching.
                  Last edited by Hankey; 25-06-2013, 07:22 PM.
                  Originally posted by MOOG
                  Super Weasel Piss - sounds like its worth trying!
                  Originally posted by brian_rs/ss
                  what is the US version of a cressida?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Hankey View Post
                    1A 77.5mm
                    2A 76mm
                    3A 77.5mm
                    5A 78.7mm
                    6A 76mm

                    D13 75mm
                    D15 75mm
                    D16 75mm

                    GSX-R1100 75.5mm

                    Mazda E3-E5 (Ford Meteor Engine) 77mm

                    VW 1200 Aircooled 77mm
                    VW EA827 1.3 75mm
                    VW EA827 1.4 76.5

                    One of these HAS to have the wristpin height we're looking for. Powerwise I feel the most optimistic about the D16 pistons (because high-revving VTEC) and the GSX-R1100 pistons because they can withstand up to 200 HP.

                    Does your KE70 book say what the wrist pin height/diameter is? Once I have that, I can get searching.
                    Ill confirm after work, but I'm pretty sure it's 18mm. The Mazda 323/Ford Lazer pistons have a wrist pin diameter of 20mm if my research is correct.

                    EDIT: My book doesn't list the size, however I was pretty sure I read it before.

                    http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...s-rods-4k.html

                    At the end of the first post they mention 4k being 18mm.
                    Last edited by ThePotatoSmasher; 24-06-2013, 04:50 PM.
                    1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 - Build Thread
                    2004 Subaru Liberty Sedan EJ25 5sp Manual - Current Daily Thread
                    1994 Toyota Corolla Hatch Csi Ltd. 4AFE 4sp Auto - Sold 25/01/13
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                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Alright, it's like 1 AM here, so I'll figure this all out in a few hours.

                      Ahh the joys of oddball engines.
                      Originally posted by MOOG
                      Super Weasel Piss - sounds like its worth trying!
                      Originally posted by brian_rs/ss
                      what is the US version of a cressida?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Hankey View Post
                        Alright, it's like 1 AM here, so I'll figure this all out in a few hours.

                        Ahh the joys of oddball engines.
                        Dedication, I used to stay up half the night researching crap for engines etc. But then I became a Fitter. My midnight research sessions had to cease. Also I think we need some way of calculating the compression that these different pistons will give. Obviously some are going to be higher then others, some more suited to turbo or N/A. To do this we will need the displacement of the combustion chamber. Also the height and dome/dish shape of the pistons. Should be able to find, but it's going to take some digging.
                        Last edited by ThePotatoSmasher; 24-06-2013, 07:11 PM.
                        1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 - Build Thread
                        2004 Subaru Liberty Sedan EJ25 5sp Manual - Current Daily Thread
                        1994 Toyota Corolla Hatch Csi Ltd. 4AFE 4sp Auto - Sold 25/01/13
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                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I just want to chuck this up here because I feel that it's relevant.

                          From the Haynes Toyota Corolla KE70 Repair Manual

                          "4K-C (pushrod) engine

                          General
                          Displacement - 1.3 litres
                          Cylinder numbers (front-to-rear) - 1-2-3-4
                          Firing order - 1-3-4-2

                          Cylinder compression pressure at 250rpm
                          .Standard - 1130 kpa
                          .Minimum - 882 kpa

                          Oil pressure (engine hot)
                          .At 3000 rpm - 290 to 500 kpa
                          .At idle - 30 kpa

                          Cylinder head warpage limits
                          Head-to-block surface - 0.05 mm
                          Manifold surface - 0.1 mm

                          Timing Chain and sprockets
                          Timing chain length (maximum) - 272.7 mm
                          Timing chain sprocket wear limit (measured with chain)
                          .Crankshaft sprocket - 59 mm
                          .Camshaft sprocket - 114 mm

                          Timing chain slack - 13.5 mm @98N (10 kg)

                          Timing chain tensioner thickness (minimum) - 12.0 mm

                          Timing chain damper thickness (minimum) - 4.0 mm

                          Camshaft
                          Lobe height (with solid lifters)
                          .Intake - 36.469 to 36.569 mm
                          .Exhaust - 36.369 to 36.469

                          Lobe Height (with hydraulic lifters)
                          .Intake - 36.588 to 36.688 mm
                          .Exhaust - 36.403 to 36.503 mm

                          End play
                          .Standard - 0.07 to 0.14 mm
                          .Service limit - 0.3 mm

                          Journal-to-bearing (oil) clearance - 0.025 to 0.066 mm

                          Journal out-of-round limit - 0.06 mm

                          Journal diameter (journals numbered from front-to-rear of engine)
                          .No. 1- 43.209 to 43.225 mm
                          .No. 2 - 42.954 to 42.970 mm
                          .No. 3 - 42.704 to 42.720 mm
                          .No. 4 - 42.459 to 45.457 mm

                          Valves and related components
                          Minimum valve margin width
                          .Intake - 0.8 mm
                          .Exhaust - 0.9 mm

                          Intake valve
                          .Stem Diameter - 7.965 to 7.980 mm
                          .Stem-to-guide clearance
                          ..Standard - 0.030 to 0.065 mm
                          ..Service Limit - 0.08 mm
                          .Length
                          ..Standard - 99.9 mm
                          ..Minimum - 99.4 mm

                          Exhaust valve
                          .Stem diameter - 7.960 to 7.975 mm
                          .Stem-to-guide clearance
                          ..Standard - 0.035 to 0.070 mm
                          ..Service limit - 0.10 mm
                          .Length
                          ..Standard - 100.1 mm
                          ..Minimum - 99.6 mm

                          Valve Spring
                          .Pressure/installed height
                          ..With solid lifters - 31.8 kg at 38.4 mm
                          ..With hydraulic lifters - 35 kg 38.4 mm
                          .Free length
                          ..With solid lifters - 46.5 mm
                          ..With hydraulic lifters - 48.0 mm
                          .Out-of-square limit - 2.0 mm

                          Valve lifter
                          .Diameter - 19.978 to 19.999 mm
                          .Lifter-to-bore clearance
                          ..Standard - 0.015 to 0.029 mm
                          ..Service limit - 0.10 mm

                          Crankshaft and connecting rods
                          Connecting rod journal
                          .Diameter - 41.976 to 42.000 mm
                          .Taper and out-of-round limits - 0.01 mm
                          .Bearing oil clearance
                          ..Standard - 0.016 to 0.040 mm
                          ..Service limit - 0.10 mm

                          Connecting rod side clearance (endplay)
                          .Standard - 0.200 to 0.304 mm
                          .Service limit - 0.35 mm

                          Main bearing journal
                          .Diameter - 49.976 to 50.000 mm
                          .Taper and out-of-round limits - 0.01 mm
                          .Bearing oil clearance
                          ..Standard - 0.016 to 0.040 mm
                          ..Service limit - 0.10 mm

                          Crankshaft endplay
                          .Standard - 0.040 to 0.42 mm
                          .Service limit - 0.10 mm

                          Thrust bearing thickness
                          .Standard - 2.430 to 2.48 mm
                          .O/S type 0.125 - 2.49 to 2.54 mm
                          .O/S type 0.250 - 2.55 to 2.60 mm

                          Engine Block
                          Deck warpage limit - 0.05 mm
                          Cylinder bore
                          .Diameter
                          ..Standard - 75.000 to 75.030 mm
                          ..Service limit - 0.20 mm
                          .Taper and out-of-round limits - 0.02 mm

                          Pistons and rings
                          Piston diameter (standard) - 74.96 to 74.99 mm

                          Piston-to-bore clearance - 0.03 to 0.05 mm

                          Piston ring end gap
                          .No. 1 (top) compression ring - 0.260 to 0.390 mm
                          .No. 2 (middle) compression ring - 0.150 to 0.420 mm
                          .Oil control ring - 0.300 to 1.020 mm

                          Piston ring side clearance
                          .No. 1 (top) compression ring - 0.030 to 0.070 mm
                          .No. 2 (middle) compression ring - 0.020 to 0.060 mm"

                          It's quite a plethora of information, but I've looked and I haven't been able to find these specs any where on the internet. So I figure it's open for everyone now.
                          Last edited by ThePotatoSmasher; 24-06-2013, 08:15 PM.
                          1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 - Build Thread
                          2004 Subaru Liberty Sedan EJ25 5sp Manual - Current Daily Thread
                          1994 Toyota Corolla Hatch Csi Ltd. 4AFE 4sp Auto - Sold 25/01/13
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                          • #14
                            WE HAVE A GOOD, POSSIBLE PISTON/ROD SETUP.

                            Toyota 1G pistons and rods work, however, the pistons are 3mm lower than ideal, and have the four valve reliefs.

                            1G's have 20MM wrist pins.
                            So does the Honda D16 which is also aftermarket and we can order it with high compression.

                            So It seems the ideal setup for the 4K is 1G-GE rods, and forged Honda D16 pistons.

                            I will confirm this next time I have access to a 4K block/crank, OR if I blow my engine up.

                            EDIT: nevermind, the D16 piston would lower the compression even more than the 1G-GTE pistons.
                            Last edited by Hankey; 25-06-2013, 06:56 PM.
                            Originally posted by MOOG
                            Super Weasel Piss - sounds like its worth trying!
                            Originally posted by brian_rs/ss
                            what is the US version of a cressida?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Hankey View Post
                              WE HAVE A GOOD, POSSIBLE PISTON/ROD SETUP.

                              Toyota 1G pistons and rods work, however, the pistons are 3mm lower than ideal, and have the four valve reliefs.

                              1G's have 20MM wrist pins.
                              So does the Honda D16 which is also aftermarket and we can order it with high compression.

                              So It seems the ideal setup for the 4K is 1G-GE rods, and forged Honda D16 pistons.

                              I will confirm this next time I have access to a 4K block/crank, OR if I blow my engine up.
                              The 1G rods and pistons have been tested in a 4k block and said that it should work well for a turbo setup. Any idea the compression you will get from the 1G-GE rods and D16 pistons? Personally before I go swapping them around I will be calculating the precise compression ratio, as I don't want to destroy my engine for no reason.
                              Last edited by ThePotatoSmasher; 25-06-2013, 06:10 PM.
                              1982 Toyota Corolla KE70 - Build Thread
                              2004 Subaru Liberty Sedan EJ25 5sp Manual - Current Daily Thread
                              1994 Toyota Corolla Hatch Csi Ltd. 4AFE 4sp Auto - Sold 25/01/13
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