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One switch to rule them all...

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  • #16
    Yikes, popping fuses is not a good sign! For starters, do just one window at a time, get that working up and down without popping any fuses, then add a second window. As you said, the factory switch has a 30A fuse and does the job, so clearly something isn't right and you've got a short to ground somewhere. Use your multimeter to test resistance to ground of all the wires you've connected to the switch (except the +12V). The resistances will be quite low because motors have a lot of inductive resistance that won't be present when you test them, but hopefully there will be enough to distinguish between a good connection and a shorted one.

    Is the fuse you are blowing the fuse on your tap, or another fuse?


    • #17
      I tried at first with just one motor connected, but it still seems to be too much for the 30A fuse. I know the master switch has a hot and ground going into it, so maybe is there something going wrong when I'm feeding hot into those wires? In the first picture was the 30A fuse that popped when I hooked up the switch to the grey (+) wire in the loom, and the other fuse is where I have added the fuse tap. I'm wondering if their is anyway to send this power directly to the motors, and not have to go through the wires. Or if it does have to go through the wires, I could add a one way diode so that that power doesn't come into the master switch, just the motors.
      Last edited by Spectrumnist; 10-08-2018, 12:26 AM.


      • #18
        Yeah that shouldn't be popping fuses at all.

        Does it pop fuses if you unplug the original switches?
        They see me coalin', they hatin'.

        Project Diesel Tune:



        • #19
          WOAH WOAH WOAH the eff up cowboys!!!! Sorry to be a debbie (or cheryl.) But you need to rewire the whole lot with bigger wires.... Just seeing from the photo they arent big enough. Gets hot my friend and I bet you have the stupid setup almost all modern cars have where power feeds through central locking.... Not say ing it WILL fail buit theres like a 90% cance your going to burn some wires or fry motors due to amprage drops and spikes making lots of heat. Power windows draw more amprage than heated seats or power seats!!! Just please make a good skookum circut before you seal up this venture! I just played around with installing new heavier switches in my car and that was an event in its self.... Bro I just behoove you to take heed and use some THICC wires id go the next sized up from that red guy you got tapped into the pannel. Probably 50 amp will get you there but theres almost no protection for an individual motor not that you should need it.
          Permanent rev limiter = the crank popping out to say ELLO!!!!


          • #20
            Ok, so I've taken the wires off for now, everything on the loom is heatshrinked to normal, and the external switch has been set aside. The problem I'm facing is that when using a diode on one of the up or down wires (14 gauge just so you know) it'll send power through one way, but it also seems to send power back through which the diode stops, making the window only work one way. And with diodes on both up and down, it won't work at all. (This was all in experimenting, there's no diodes on it rn)

            So my conclusion now is that the master switch is instead of having both the up and down grounded (-) before switching and giving on of them hot (-) is that the motor doesn't actually have it's own ground (-) connection, it relies on the switch to send hot (+) into one and ground (-) into another.

            Here's a picture of what I originally thought the wiring diargram for this would be, including the diode. But now that I'm sure this won't work, I don't know how much further I want to go


            • #21
              If there was a way I could ground the motors, then I could just send positive in one side and it would work, but the way it's set up, I think the master switch switches positive and negative, and the ground is connected to the negative, which is why when I try to use my external switch it is giving power through the master switches ground and thus popping fuses.