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One switch to rule them all...

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  • #16
    Yikes, popping fuses is not a good sign! For starters, do just one window at a time, get that working up and down without popping any fuses, then add a second window. As you said, the factory switch has a 30A fuse and does the job, so clearly something isn't right and you've got a short to ground somewhere. Use your multimeter to test resistance to ground of all the wires you've connected to the switch (except the +12V). The resistances will be quite low because motors have a lot of inductive resistance that won't be present when you test them, but hopefully there will be enough to distinguish between a good connection and a shorted one.

    Is the fuse you are blowing the fuse on your tap, or another fuse?


    • #17
      I tried at first with just one motor connected, but it still seems to be too much for the 30A fuse. I know the master switch has a hot and ground going into it, so maybe is there something going wrong when I'm feeding hot into those wires? In the first picture was the 30A fuse that popped when I hooked up the switch to the grey (+) wire in the loom, and the other fuse is where I have added the fuse tap. I'm wondering if their is anyway to send this power directly to the motors, and not have to go through the wires. Or if it does have to go through the wires, I could add a one way diode so that that power doesn't come into the master switch, just the motors.
      Last edited by Spectrumnist; 10-08-2018, 01:26 AM.


      • #18
        Yeah that shouldn't be popping fuses at all.

        Does it pop fuses if you unplug the original switches?
        I stripped my car out so much it now has 49/49 weight distribution.

        Project Diesel Tune:


        My new Daily HA36S Alto Works

        Martin's Kei to success



        • #19
          WOAH WOAH WOAH the eff up cowboys!!!! Sorry to be a debbie (or cheryl.) But you need to rewire the whole lot with bigger wires.... Just seeing from the photo they arent big enough. Gets hot my friend and I bet you have the stupid setup almost all modern cars have where power feeds through central locking.... Not say ing it WILL fail buit theres like a 90% cance your going to burn some wires or fry motors due to amprage drops and spikes making lots of heat. Power windows draw more amprage than heated seats or power seats!!! Just please make a good skookum circut before you seal up this venture! I just played around with installing new heavier switches in my car and that was an event in its self.... Bro I just behoove you to take heed and use some THICC wires id go the next sized up from that red guy you got tapped into the pannel. Probably 50 amp will get you there but theres almost no protection for an individual motor not that you should need it.
          Permanent rev limiter = the crank popping out to say ELLO!!!!


          • #20
            Ok, so I've taken the wires off for now, everything on the loom is heatshrinked to normal, and the external switch has been set aside. The problem I'm facing is that when using a diode on one of the up or down wires (14 gauge just so you know) it'll send power through one way, but it also seems to send power back through which the diode stops, making the window only work one way. And with diodes on both up and down, it won't work at all. (This was all in experimenting, there's no diodes on it rn)

            So my conclusion now is that the master switch is instead of having both the up and down grounded (-) before switching and giving on of them hot (-) is that the motor doesn't actually have it's own ground (-) connection, it relies on the switch to send hot (+) into one and ground (-) into another.

            Here's a picture of what I originally thought the wiring diargram for this would be, including the diode. But now that I'm sure this won't work, I don't know how much further I want to go


            • #21
              If there was a way I could ground the motors, then I could just send positive in one side and it would work, but the way it's set up, I think the master switch switches positive and negative, and the ground is connected to the negative, which is why when I try to use my external switch it is giving power through the master switches ground and thus popping fuses.


              • #22
                Hi mate, sorry, haven't been on the forums in a while. I had another look at the wiring diagrams for the Corolla and it looks like I owe you an apology as it's not quite as simple to override as I thought. You are correct that the master switch is giving positive and ground to opposite wires on the motor to make it move. When the master switch is resting it is grounding both wires. Below is a section of the wiring diagram for the windows.
                Note that the blue and pink wires coming from the left side of the drawing are carrying 12V power.

                You don't need to connect the motor to ground to get it to work, you need to disconnect the wire you are giving 12V to, the way that the rear window switches do in the above diagram. This is why you've been blowing fuses, you've been giving it a straight short to ground. I would give you some tips here, but I think that would be a bit rich given I've directed you down a path that wasn't right, but it pays to double check the wire does what you think it does, especially when you put power onto it. At least in this case you will have just blown some fuses and not damaged anything more expensive.

                I'm afraid the switch I suggested is not going to be right for this, you would need a pair of 2 position switches with 3 poles each, then one switch would make them go down, the other would make them go up. These switches would just copy what the individual switches on the doors do, at rest they would connect the master switch to the motors, when activated they would break the connection to the master switch and give +12V instead.

                Did you get the wiring diagrams for the xD? Are they the same as the above?


                • #23
                  So here is the wiring diagram from the 2009 Electrical Wiring Diagram Scion xD book. Ok, so this much I do know, The motor on page 167 with no light blue box is the driver's side switch, the other one's are the other switches, and have those light blue boxes for the door switch they are on. The blue line L and the two light blue lines SB (the ones next to the grey wire that cross the page from 166 to 167) are window lock. And other than that most of the wires are kind of self explanatory, however, I do not know what all is going on in the grey panel. I hope this helps.
                  Last edited by Spectrumnist; 24-08-2018, 05:49 AM.


                  • #24
                    I'd say the grey panel is the fuse box. Are you still wanting to go ahead with this mod?


                    • #25
                      Well, I just moved into my new apartment for college today, and until I know exactly what I am doing, I think I'll hold off. However there is one other mod, fairly simple however, just using the old iPod port for a dual USB port. I think it's as easy as just getting some wiring from the fuse box to the lower part of the center console. But I could be wrong. I haven't bought the USB port, but here is a link to the one I was going to use.



                      • #26
                        Is the iPod port in your wiring diagrams? I haven't seen one of those before, but judging by the number of pins in it surely there must be a 12V in there! Or you could take power from the cigarette lighter socket which is a couple of inches away.


                        • #27
                          The plug for the socket I would just pull out and hide behind the center console, I have no need of it, but I don't want to cut the wires. You think there's any way I can run wires from the fuse box? Piggyback and wire up the new USB port behind the dash area? If not, I could T-tap from the cigarette lighter socket, but I don't want to loose power from that socket just to run my USB ports.
                          Last edited by Spectrumnist; 28-08-2018, 12:50 AM.